Meticulous planners, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez know how to edit their lineup into a narrative that unfolds over the course of a show. It takes a few exits before you know what you’re looking at, but after that it all makes sense. There was not a look out of place in their fall collection. It seemed to be a crisper, dressier distillation of what they presented in pre-fall, inspiration for which was sourced from a trip out West. Earthy desert colors, like orange, golden yellow and brown, dominated, and were worked into a recurring graphic pattern that brought to mind the now prehistoric computer graphics of the Eighties crossed with a tribal motif. Think Atari meets Navajo. Neither idea is intrinsically modern or refined yet McCollough and Hernandez manipulated them into a strong urban-chic look.
They played their signatures with rich, highly engineered fabrics. So the buttoned-up shirts, tails untucked in back, came in black and white suede. Low slung tomboy pants were done in colorful graphic jacquards, as were sporty crewneck sweaters. The fabric innovation made things look quite new. Two great patent shearlings, pressed flat and cut with clean, sharp lines, required a double take. Chunky, viscose and leather knits worked a cozy street effect, while razor-thin velvet slips and sheaths skewed sexy in an adult, sometimes covered up, way. What was most impressive about this collection was Hernandez and McCollough’s ability to take traditionally homespun themes and make them look sophisticated and even edgy. There was no better example of that than a pair of macramé skirts — both show highlights — that swished by in a flash of black and neon-yellow and green. When was the last time you looked at macramé and thought, cool?