It’s no secret that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez view eachrunway collection as an opportunity to shred their previous show, dosomething totally different and knock it out of the park — which theydid again for fall, providing one of the New York season’s few momentsof significant fashion news. So spring’s retro kitsch of bustier topsand bad car interiors was out; a minimalist streak done in maxed-outsilhouettes was in, at least at the outset.
The show opened with crisp white cottons in poplin jacquard andpique because “we were just bored with wool,” said McCollough during apreview. Big boxy jackets, shirtdresses and skirts were fashioned fromflat, precise layers that folded across the body with uneven hems andworkwear details, such as patch pockets and diagonal zippers;extra-wide-leg pants sat low on the hips. It made for a powerfulsportswear statement (it went on to include biker leathers) — with thedistinct beat of the audacious urban warrior. It also spoke to the powerof the Celine phenomenon, but not in a literal way. As fantastic as theseparates were for their construction and impact, they were challengingas well, those voluminous proportions not for the faint of heart. Whatcould not be overstated were the extraordinary fabrics — all developedin-house and custom-made.