It sounds patronizing to say that this could be considered awatershed collection for Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and LazaroHernandez; their work has been extremely refined for some time,including spring’s visually kinetic show. But their fall collection feltlike a substantial leap even from there. Here, they displayed such acomfort level with subtlety, which in turn allowed for an expression ofovert sophistication. It was as if they were welcoming not just theexpected cool fashion girls — they’ll love the lineup as always — but abroader range of fashion-loving women (yes, read: older) as well. It wasexquisite.


The designers continue to be fascinated by surface interest anddevelop their fabrics accordingly. They were inspired by the work ofphotographer John Divola, whose late-Seventies Zuma series “captured theslow decay of beachside structures.” Yada yada. As there was zerodismal decay in sight, one concluded the inspiration was channeled intothe superb fabrics, mostly highly tactile studies in a minimalistpalette of black, white and gray tinged with the occasional barely-therepastel. There were dense bouclés, woven leathers and a glorious woventulle that impersonated tweed.

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