In some ways, the real preview of Lazaro Hernandez and JackMcCollough’s spring collection was in June with resort, their testingground for new runway material. At the time, it was impossible to tellhow the designers would crystallize a few new ideas they were playingwith — neutrals, sunburst accordion pleats and a first attempt atdraping — into this vision of calm, natural order.

A tranquil purity pervaded the runway as the designers channeledthe chic subtlety that made their fall show so spectacular, in a verydifferent direction. They worked under the influence of West Coastmidcentury furniture designers and Arte Povera, the late Sixtiesmovement based on simplicity and nature — two defining principles ofthis collection, particularly in the daywear. With a palette skewedearthy in shades of cream, navy, clay and yellow, Hernandez andMcCollough’s opening silhouettes combined lean structure with richmaterials (such as suede and crepe) that moved gracefully. Nothing wasstiff. An ecru cotton crepe dress with a high neck and long, slimsleeves cut a clean line, and featured six precisely placed silverturnlocks on the chest. Every detail was measured but made to feelorganic, such as the cotton crepe jackets and midlength culottes printedto look like the seams had been traced in paint strokes.

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