On a drafty pier on the Hudson, heat lamps dangling from the raftersfor warmth as much as set decoration, David Neville and MarcusWainwright sent out their latest collection that was a worthy romp inthe English countryside by way of India.

“Think about a countryhouse and all the things you might find in it,” said Wainrightbackstage. There were the floral tapestries from the library cut intocollared jackets and jodhpurs, and striped blankets and riding gearnicked from the stables that were transformed into a lust-worthytrenchcoat with sharp leather shoulders. Rich metallic fabrics were madeinto sharp pantsuits, or threaded into a knockout ikat sweater dress,then belted — as almost everything was — and paired with their covetableankle boots or heeled loafers. “The real challenge was how manydifferent elements we had,” noted Neville, “and combining them all in away that looked great but also made sense for the brand.” Referring, ofcourse, to the pile-it-on mentality that’s become almost as much a Rag& Bone signature as the precise and detailed tailoring on which theduo built their label. The layering, it must be noted, has evolved into acontrolled, ubersophisticated process, and worked especially well,thanks to the multitude of draping and wrapping that softened the harderedges of the dark palette and leather accents throughout, and alsopresented an off-kilter hemline that felt as fresh as the cold breezesseeping through the cracks of the warehouse.

Earlier in the day,the designers sent out an authoritative men’s collection heavy onmilitary themes — sweeping tweed officer’s coats with shearling collarsand herringbone cavalry pants tucked into leather boots. An elegant riffon an ikat paisley pattern looked like camouflage on sport coats andtrousers, while dégradé fabrics added sophistication to herringboneblazers and wool chinos. Outerwear was particularly strong, especiallylush overcoats in broad blanket stripes. Designers Marcus Wainwright andDavid Neville took a less rugged path this season, with plentifulwaistcoats and pocket-watch chains, giving the show an almost Edwardianelegance.

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