Marcus Wainwright and David Neville have always worked a borrowed-from-the-boys aesthetic in their women’s collections, and this season it never looked better. Sure, the razor-sharp tailoring, in the form of blazers and cravat coats, were there in spades, but they felt utterly fresh paired with slouchy summer long johns, jersey rompers and motorcycle boots. They also layered great basics with abandon, which made for a just-threw-it-on look that guests Charlize Theron and “Gossip Girl” Jessica Szohr would be happy to be caught in.
The men’s wear, meanwhile, seemed oddly wintry, due to thermal layers and heavy-looking coats. The designers typically make references to military history, but they overembellished this time, taking their boxy officer’s jackets and uniform trousers to a too-literal place. And they pinned fabric in the back while some looseness would have been welcomed.