The two subjects of Reed Krakoff’s spring show were sex and HelmutLang. The former was rendered in lingerielike layerings of leather withblushes and sheer browns that brought to mind panty hose. If it lackedfor any sense of subtlety, it put the collection in one of the season’sbig conversations. As for Lang — even if it’s time to declare his impactpart of fashion’s public domain like the Halstons and Chanels of theworld — Krakoff’s references were a bit literal. The original doesn’tseem so long ago.

Still, the lineup was not without its virtues.Slips and liquid sheaths were elegant and provocative with a sportyside in technical silks and touches of leather. Two vests, one tan, onepink and black, conveyed a sharp, minimalist attitude in bonded leather.The reinterpretations of sweatshirts and track jackets, shown in sheermaterials and shiny silk, upheld Krakoff’s position on the interplay ofmasculinity and femininity with a sport undercurrent. Things got murkywith the overzealous layers: a sheer dress with a painted feather motifworn over a jarring black bra top, and a T-shirt done in sheer panelsplunked on top of a silver painted python skirt. The mix needed more airto achieve lift-off.

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