Kate and Laura Mulleavy are not the only designers in the big leagues who hail from California, but they are on the short list of those who still reside there. The Mulleavys’ connection to California is thicker than water and has bled into beautiful collections in the past. The California condor one of spring 2010 comes to mind. Their fall lineup also fell close to the hometown tree, with the designers flying the flag for the outer-limits charm of West Coast free spirits while making a real effort to show something that earthlings will buy and wear.
“It’s based on a town we grew up in, Santa Cruz,” said Laura Mulleavy, her tone implying that Santa Cruz is practically unheard of, never mind that for decades it has been an epicenter for surf and skate culture, which was the genesis of the collection. A progression from chic street to high boardwalk began with a series of black and nude looks, the first of which featured a luxe oversize suede trench worn over a tight bodysuit and black textured cropped pants that sat so low, the model’s bare hipbones jutted out, a recurring effect. Working in solid neutrals grounded some of the dreamy moments — i.e., the silk jumpsuit with a sheer tulle back embroidered with angel wings — without sinking them.
Then it was onto the trippy side of Cali, wherein the Mulleavys imaginatively dressed up lowbrow stoner staples. There was tie-dye for evening in fluid, colorful silk gowns, some of which were topped with angular “foam” collars in white, black or nude, while others merged tie-dye skirts with crimson, rose-embroidered tulle. A terrific graphic sweater and matching slim skirt with fringed trim seemed a fancier cousin of the Baja. The show ended with a parade of acid wash, whether as real denim, such as “shorts” that were really cropped pants shown unzipped up the side, or filmy printed silks like the wispy one-shouldered chiffon dresses. Throughout, Rodarte’s high-end Hell’s Angels wore barbed crowns and necklaces, and sheer tattoo socks with art by celebrity tattoo artist Scott Campbell.
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)
Discovery is collaborating with British pop artist @philipcolbert on a new line of clothing and accessories called Discovery Shark. The collection, which will launch next summer for Shark Week’s 30th anniversary, features a whimsical line of women’s and men’s bomber jackets, sweatshirts, bags and more. #wwdfashion
“I’m always a big champion of a female rapper, and I’m glad to see a new voice that feels unique and authentic that’s coming up, and I think we’re going to see more great things from her,” said @itsjeremyscott about @iamcardib, who performed at @moschino’s Art Basel Miami Beach party last night. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@janellemonae’s “What’s Your Frequency?” room in @refinery29's #29Rooms made its debut this week at the opening of the Los Angeles art exhibit. “It’s about the ongoing conversation around mass surveillance, the weaponization of technology and cultural uniformity. My space was created so that we can come together and talk about the complexities of our humanity,” said Monáe. #wwdeye (📷: @bucknerphoto)
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)