Some of us will never know what it’s like to be preceded by areputation for utter cool. God, it must be great to have done whateverit was you did that got you to earn that status, and to have been dulyrecognized for such. But (in the cry-me-a-river category) it must alsocarry a downside: the constant pressure to live up to advance billing.
HediSlimane’s much-anticipated debut at Saint Laurent had all the markingsof a cool fest: first, the migration of his design studio to L.A.; thetweaking of house name and logo, and then, in the lead-up to his show onMonday night, the endless chirping about whom would sit where, whicheditors-in-chief had been scuttled to the second row and on and on. Atthe show, designers including Alber Elbaz, Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisciand Vivienne Westwood turned out to lend support while Old Guard YSLloyalists Pierre Bergé and Betty Catroux sat across the runway from thelikes of Kate Moss and Jessica Chastain. This occurred in an intimateGrande Palais salon, its walls covered in black tenting, the ceilingblack as well until the overture of sorts when an intense light show gotstarted and two rows of ceiling panels retracted to reveal additionallighting and sound equipment that was then lowered over the runway.
Coolfest alert? Did Slimane offer a new, stunning prescription for edgychic funneled through the Saint Laurent lexicon? Not even close. Rather,he filtered sweet homage through an L.A., rock-loving lens (orpossibly, a pitch to dress some of Rachel Zoe’s skinniest clients). Itwas interesting to the point of odd. First look out: small black jacket;skinny black pants; white frilled shirt; big, soft bow at the neck;bigger-brimmed fedora. This was followed by countless variations of thesame — the fabrics changing from wool to leather to glitz to pinstripesand from cotton to silk and back — and of a second theme, Saint Laurentflou, every look under major chapeau shade. On one level it charmed, butwhat to make of it all? Perhaps that within his two primary points,Slimane incorporated house codes to be developed in future forays:Tailoring. Smoking. Gypsy tiers. Languid evenings. Saharienne. Animalspots. Chubby. Demonstrative jewelry. The only thing missing throughoutwas color, and that appeared sparingly in his evening finale.
Costumeythough it was — and this was a costume parade, delivered either withreverence unblemished by irony or with a sense of irony too highlydeveloped for all but the most anthropologically astute to get — therewas considerable takeaway. Given the proverbial “broken-down” treatment,the clothes were good: slick, sexy pants, jackets and shirts, which ontheir own won’t scream retro and, to a lesser degree, gowns that womenwill want to wear. Often. Which means herein could be the buildingblocks for the kind of business YSL has in mind. According to sources,the company aspires to 1 billion euros in sales by the end of thisdecade.
Slimane’s part in achieving that goal speaks to the roleof the creative director in today’s brand-oriented reality. At a majorluxury house intent upon exploding its global market share, is it moreimportant for the designer-creative director to advance fashion, tooffer new prescriptions, to challenge, or to make understandably stylishclothes with which there may already be a familiarity factor? Thoughthe two can coexist, they’re not the most naturally simpaticocompanions. At Saint Laurent, Slimane owns complete oversight of allthings creative, from advertising to store design to the dimensions ofthe shoebox. Perhaps upcoming on his to-do list will be finding aseamless fusion of fashion, comfort and risk.
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye