Some of us will never know what it’s like to be preceded by areputation for utter cool. God, it must be great to have done whateverit was you did that got you to earn that status, and to have been dulyrecognized for such. But (in the cry-me-a-river category) it must alsocarry a downside: the constant pressure to live up to advance billing.
HediSlimane’s much-anticipated debut at Saint Laurent had all the markingsof a cool fest: first, the migration of his design studio to L.A.; thetweaking of house name and logo, and then, in the lead-up to his show onMonday night, the endless chirping about whom would sit where, whicheditors-in-chief had been scuttled to the second row and on and on. Atthe show, designers including Alber Elbaz, Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisciand Vivienne Westwood turned out to lend support while Old Guard YSLloyalists Pierre Bergé and Betty Catroux sat across the runway from thelikes of Kate Moss and Jessica Chastain. This occurred in an intimateGrande Palais salon, its walls covered in black tenting, the ceilingblack as well until the overture of sorts when an intense light show gotstarted and two rows of ceiling panels retracted to reveal additionallighting and sound equipment that was then lowered over the runway.
Coolfest alert? Did Slimane offer a new, stunning prescription for edgychic funneled through the Saint Laurent lexicon? Not even close. Rather,he filtered sweet homage through an L.A., rock-loving lens (orpossibly, a pitch to dress some of Rachel Zoe’s skinniest clients). Itwas interesting to the point of odd. First look out: small black jacket;skinny black pants; white frilled shirt; big, soft bow at the neck;bigger-brimmed fedora. This was followed by countless variations of thesame — the fabrics changing from wool to leather to glitz to pinstripesand from cotton to silk and back — and of a second theme, Saint Laurentflou, every look under major chapeau shade. On one level it charmed, butwhat to make of it all? Perhaps that within his two primary points,Slimane incorporated house codes to be developed in future forays:Tailoring. Smoking. Gypsy tiers. Languid evenings. Saharienne. Animalspots. Chubby. Demonstrative jewelry. The only thing missing throughoutwas color, and that appeared sparingly in his evening finale.
Costumeythough it was — and this was a costume parade, delivered either withreverence unblemished by irony or with a sense of irony too highlydeveloped for all but the most anthropologically astute to get — therewas considerable takeaway. Given the proverbial “broken-down” treatment,the clothes were good: slick, sexy pants, jackets and shirts, which ontheir own won’t scream retro and, to a lesser degree, gowns that womenwill want to wear. Often. Which means herein could be the buildingblocks for the kind of business YSL has in mind. According to sources,the company aspires to 1 billion euros in sales by the end of thisdecade.
Slimane’s part in achieving that goal speaks to the roleof the creative director in today’s brand-oriented reality. At a majorluxury house intent upon exploding its global market share, is it moreimportant for the designer-creative director to advance fashion, tooffer new prescriptions, to challenge, or to make understandably stylishclothes with which there may already be a familiarity factor? Thoughthe two can coexist, they’re not the most naturally simpaticocompanions. At Saint Laurent, Slimane owns complete oversight of allthings creative, from advertising to store design to the dimensions ofthe shoebox. Perhaps upcoming on his to-do list will be finding aseamless fusion of fashion, comfort and risk.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye