Some of us will never know what it’s like to be preceded by areputation for utter cool. God, it must be great to have done whateverit was you did that got you to earn that status, and to have been dulyrecognized for such. But (in the cry-me-a-river category) it must alsocarry a downside: the constant pressure to live up to advance billing.
HediSlimane’s much-anticipated debut at Saint Laurent had all the markingsof a cool fest: first, the migration of his design studio to L.A.; thetweaking of house name and logo, and then, in the lead-up to his show onMonday night, the endless chirping about whom would sit where, whicheditors-in-chief had been scuttled to the second row and on and on. Atthe show, designers including Alber Elbaz, Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisciand Vivienne Westwood turned out to lend support while Old Guard YSLloyalists Pierre Bergé and Betty Catroux sat across the runway from thelikes of Kate Moss and Jessica Chastain. This occurred in an intimateGrande Palais salon, its walls covered in black tenting, the ceilingblack as well until the overture of sorts when an intense light show gotstarted and two rows of ceiling panels retracted to reveal additionallighting and sound equipment that was then lowered over the runway.
Coolfest alert? Did Slimane offer a new, stunning prescription for edgychic funneled through the Saint Laurent lexicon? Not even close. Rather,he filtered sweet homage through an L.A., rock-loving lens (orpossibly, a pitch to dress some of Rachel Zoe’s skinniest clients). Itwas interesting to the point of odd. First look out: small black jacket;skinny black pants; white frilled shirt; big, soft bow at the neck;bigger-brimmed fedora. This was followed by countless variations of thesame — the fabrics changing from wool to leather to glitz to pinstripesand from cotton to silk and back — and of a second theme, Saint Laurentflou, every look under major chapeau shade. On one level it charmed, butwhat to make of it all? Perhaps that within his two primary points,Slimane incorporated house codes to be developed in future forays:Tailoring. Smoking. Gypsy tiers. Languid evenings. Saharienne. Animalspots. Chubby. Demonstrative jewelry. The only thing missing throughoutwas color, and that appeared sparingly in his evening finale.
Costumeythough it was — and this was a costume parade, delivered either withreverence unblemished by irony or with a sense of irony too highlydeveloped for all but the most anthropologically astute to get — therewas considerable takeaway. Given the proverbial “broken-down” treatment,the clothes were good: slick, sexy pants, jackets and shirts, which ontheir own won’t scream retro and, to a lesser degree, gowns that womenwill want to wear. Often. Which means herein could be the buildingblocks for the kind of business YSL has in mind. According to sources,the company aspires to 1 billion euros in sales by the end of thisdecade.
Slimane’s part in achieving that goal speaks to the roleof the creative director in today’s brand-oriented reality. At a majorluxury house intent upon exploding its global market share, is it moreimportant for the designer-creative director to advance fashion, tooffer new prescriptions, to challenge, or to make understandably stylishclothes with which there may already be a familiarity factor? Thoughthe two can coexist, they’re not the most naturally simpaticocompanions. At Saint Laurent, Slimane owns complete oversight of allthings creative, from advertising to store design to the dimensions ofthe shoebox. Perhaps upcoming on his to-do list will be finding aseamless fusion of fashion, comfort and risk.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews