Salvatore Ferragamo RTW Spring 2014

Amidst a paucity of quiet daywear on the Milan runways, Massimiliano Giornetti delivered some solid options.



Amidst a paucity of quiet daywear on the Milan runways, Massimiliano Giornetti delivered some solid options at Salvatore Ferragamo.

There was a masculine undercurrent to his streamlined collection, from the strong-shouldered pinstripe jackets that opened the show to recurrent military shapes: field jackets in sturdy cottons, and flight jackets and bombers in either languid silk or stiff cotton. Giornetti tempered the toughness with corset lacing on the back of jackets and bralike tops galore.

This yin and yang of opposites extended to the tailoring — lean trousers follow pleated culottes; a crisp spencer after a roomy parka.

What stood out was a surfeit of swaggering, vaguely sporty short jackets that blended elements of biker, trench and mac styles. Skirts were mainly of the swishy variety, a mash-up of kilt with apron details.

The anemic colors, stuck in the sand family and usually worn head to toe, did not make this a pulse-pounding presentation. Yet it did serve to exalt the gleaming trenchcoats and blousons in snakeskin, hand-painted with nettle green splotches, and squared-off shoes and sandals glinting with grommets and metal toecaps.

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