Amidst a paucity of quiet daywear on the Milan runways, MassimilianoGiornetti delivered some solid options at Salvatore Ferragamo.

There was a masculine undercurrent to his streamlined collection, fromthe strong-shouldered pinstripe jackets that opened the show torecurrent military shapes: field jackets in sturdy cottons, and flightjackets and bombers in either languid silk or stiff cotton. Giornettitempered the toughness with corset lacing on the back of jackets andbralike tops galore.

This yin and yang of opposites extended tothe tailoring — lean trousers follow pleated culottes; a crisp spencerafter a roomy parka.

What stood out was a surfeit ofswaggering, vaguely sporty short jackets that blended elements of biker,trench and mac styles. Skirts were mainly of the swishy variety, amash-up of kilt with apron details.

The anemic colors, stuck inthe sand family and usually worn head to toe, did not make this apulse-pounding presentation. Yet it did serve to exalt the gleamingtrenchcoats and blousons in snakeskin, hand-painted with nettle greensplotches, and squared-off shoes and sandals glinting with grommets andmetal toecaps.

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