Simone Rocha tapped into a rugged, yet regal, vein with her beautifulfall collection. “Elizabethan” and “rebellious” were influences thatthe designer cited in her spare show notes, and those ideas emerged indresses with poufy knee-length skirts that nodded to crinolines. Rochaworked them in both black wool and a shiny khaki snakeskin-printedleather, adding rows of chunky amber-bead embroidery sometimes at thehip, other times at the neck.

Cocooning outerwear looked great. One navy wool coat had rufflesat the elbows and neck, while a shaggy sheepskin coat was adorned with aharness of heavy crystal beads.

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