One of the many high points of fashion — and even this deep into theseason, there are gleeful moments — is finding something fresh in thefamiliar. Gender play, girls-will-be-boys, call it what you will, theincorporation of mannish motifs into women’s clothes is an oft-used,classic conceit. In the collection she showed on Monday, StellaMcCartney manipulated one of its obvious elements — pinstripes — intosomething new and utterly engaging. Part of the appeal was that shepretty much extracted the androgyny; her chalky stripes may be theancestral cloth of the lords of banking, but she delivered them with nosmall measure of distaff allure.
McCartney opened with tailoringmanipulated via creative draping; for example, she twisted and cut anultrachic jacket on a slant, which resulted in an uneven hem. This wentover a long, front-draped skirt in a narrower pinstripe. She then ranwith the pattern in various widths, going softer in dresses, bothaustere and long-sleeved and unexpectedly strapless, and dressed down ina big parka and terrific loose, twisty-turny sweaters.
Ever thefashion pragmatist, McCartney seldom loses sight of the importance offunction and comfort, a fact she loves to flag on her runway. Here, hercontributions to the season’s major coat moment were bold of proportionand in one case, color — a violet bouclé topper. The comfort factorcontinued in a luxed-up jogging suit and boxy tartans-meets-denim jacketover a flippy skirt that had a not-too-naughty-school-girl appeal. Andshe turned the always-inviting sweater dress sexy by splicing it withprovocatively revealing lace.
Evening offered nods to thesmoking as well as wonderfully languid options. These included longdresses made from linear but loose lengths of silk given shape (and heldin place) by wide, covered elastic bands, one at the top and the other,midthigh, creating a slight blouson effect. In other words, they werestrapless dresses that didn’t look like every other strapless dress,which is to say, constructed, stiff and boring. And they were beautiful.Brava.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia