Energy. Movement. Function. Utility. Those words, pulled from StellaMcCartney’s show notes, sum up her overall ethos. For fall, she put theminto motion with her usual pragmatism and no small level offlamboyance.

There were embroideries offbeat to the point of daring, infusingthe urbane collection with a touch of the artisan hand. Brash zippersswirled and twirled into all kinds of pattern play on tailored pieces; aserious, shapely coat took on a defiant whimsy while the mirror-imageripples and shooting-star streaks across a slim jacket and pants lookedmore contrived. Bright-hued mountaineer cording did the decorativehonors on more casual, meaty tweeds. At times, McCartney delivered thehand-hewn message with Shibori prints, as with an interesting trench andpantsuit, and a beautifully cut navy, marine and white dress with agracefully billowing back.

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