Calling something “interesting” isn’t always a compliment. But there’s no better word to apply in its most positive sense to Thakoon Panichgul’s fall collection, which was beautiful from beginning to end, as he pulled off clothes that were clever but never overwrought.
At its core, the collection was full of lady-fied pieces — shift dresses, silk blouses and polished jackets, such as a double-faced wool style, one lined with feathers, another done as a cape. Panichgul elevated such classics to quirks of construction. Specifically, he worked a bow motif — structured and chic, not sweet — into the back of a trim black jacket and the front of A-line skirts. As he has shown in seasons past, Panichgul loves a print. This time he went for a witty, navy-and-ivory confetti version on a shirtdress, and ruffle print that was playful on a tiered, ruffled dress. But the collection also had its glam side, as seen in seductive sheer inserts on silk dresses and some flamboyant furs. Here, he played into the season’s emerging fanciful fuzz moment with a bright green and orange fox cape dyed like the wings of a King Parrot.