A few days before his show, Thakoon Panichgul noted the collectionbegan with “this feral idea.” He tossed out another related buzzword:“primitive.” On other runways, those two notions might converge into ahigh-voltage outing of aggression and rawness. Here, you can check thefierceness at the door. Filtered through Panichgul’s romanticism, thecollection was beautifully electrifying in its restraint, offering oneof the more refreshing takes on this season’s emerging bestial trend.Sure, there was fur aplenty — on sleeves, lining hoods, even spillingout from shoes — but upon closer inspection, one saw flickers of crochetlace, for instance, on a patchwork jacket of fox, mink and raccoon.Meanwhile animal prints came as abstract tiger patterns or leopardburnouts in velvet.

Panichgul also worked a subtle bohemianmotif, rendered, too, with a feminine touch. (“Not typical hippie,” hesaid.) That meant gray scarf-print chiffon frocks edged in tiny pom-pomsor fringe. But then another inspiration crept in: Jean Paul Gaultier’s1985 ballet costumes for Régine Chopinot, which explains thosetopiary-esque ruffle dresses. In the end, the collection boiled down toconsummately wearable clothes: terrific coats and jackets, comfy longjohn leggings and the prettiest of draped blouses, skirts and dresses.

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