A few days before his show, Thakoon Panichgul noted the collection began with “this feral idea.” He tossed out another related buzzword: “primitive.” On other runways, those two notions might converge into a high-voltage outing of aggression and rawness. Here, you can check the fierceness at the door. Filtered through Panichgul’s romanticism, the collection was beautifully electrifying in its restraint, offering one of the more refreshing takes on this season’s emerging bestial trend. Sure, there was fur aplenty — on sleeves, lining hoods, even spilling out from shoes — but upon closer inspection, one saw flickers of crochet lace, for instance, on a patchwork jacket of fox, mink and raccoon. Meanwhile animal prints came as abstract tiger patterns or leopard burnouts in velvet.
Panichgul also worked a subtle bohemian motif, rendered, too, with a feminine touch. (“Not typical hippie,” he said.) That meant gray scarf-print chiffon frocks edged in tiny pom-poms or fringe. But then another inspiration crept in: Jean Paul Gaultier’s 1985 ballet costumes for Régine Chopinot, which explains those topiary-esque ruffle dresses. In the end, the collection boiled down to consummately wearable clothes: terrific coats and jackets, comfy long john leggings and the prettiest of draped blouses, skirts and dresses.