Thakoon Panichgul hit all his usual marks — floral prints, draped pleating (this time done Fortuny style) and a wink of naughtiness, courtesy of cut-outs and bustier tops. And, yet, spring didn’t quite come together like his witty knockout collections of late. Pre-show, Panichgul noted he "wanted to convey strength and create empowering clothes" — thus, this season’s aquatic-meets-gladiator theme. And though his ladies certainly fit the bill of glamazon warriors gone "Blue Crush," you could sense the tension between Panichgul’s more romantic inclinations and his move towards sexpot sportif, which reminded more than one editor of Nicolas Ghesquière’s spring ’03 scuba collection for Balenciaga. The runway featured a potpourri of breezy blouson dresses, sportier body-defining frocks, tweed jackets and patchwork ninja pants. In fact, many of his individual looks were spliced, too, making for some odd, some intriguing hybrid garments.

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