“There’s a lot of air going on this season,” Thakoon Panichgul said during a preview of his collection. “It’s like an open sky.” Indeed, Panichgul was in light and airy mode this season, and he sent out a beautiful lineup of feminine yet totally unfussy clothes.


A stream of fresh, relaxed white looks — including a cotton twill breakaway jacket and an appealing anorak done in Swiss eyelet — opened the show. Panichgul slowly introduced prints, here washed and faded, but still clearly his strong suit. He worked a mattress ticking stripe into a bandage dress and used a delicate floral “wallpaper” print on several very charming dresses and to slightly sexier effect on floaty organza numbers, like a translucent printed tank piped with lavender silk (paired with white pajama pants in the same print). And a flurry of simple dresses in layered apricot chiffon and periwinkle, plus a standout feather-print gown, pushed the ethereal message one step further.


But lest things float up and away, Panichgul anchored his collection in details such as hook and eye closures, gathering and lacing, as well as sturdy fabrics — Swiss eyelet, cotton twill, chambray denim and even oxford shirting — which he wrapped into a pale blue one-shoulder dress with a trail of hook-and-eye closures snaking across the front. This was but one glimpse of his twisted preppiness, followed by pajama-stripe silks and a terrific strapless twill dress with lacing on the bodice. Added to the mix were a few amazing python-print sequin looks, which, though more daring, stayed in softer territory thanks to their approachable silhouettes. “This is a bit more quiet for me,” Panichgul said before his show. But this gentle beauty spoke volumes.

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