Thom Browne played the game of “Tron” for spring. Harking back to thesci-fi classic by Steven Lisberger, the show was divided into twoparts, showcasing two essentially different collections.
Partone kicked off with futuristic, laser saber-wearing guards walkingbetween a group of masked models, sitting orderly in their gray suits,coats or jackets — all new reinterpretations of Browne’s famous graysuit. But Browne was in an even more experimental mood this season, with“modern” and “future” spooking his mind.“Did they glow in the dark?” heasked backstage after the show. They did — along with the models’neon-coated nails.
In part two, an army of sci-fi gamers boastedwhat Browne referred to as “tectonic” compositions. Consider blazers,Bermuda shorts, pants and vests constructed from partially movingpanels, which were based on the actual human anatomy, though “in afuturistic way,” as the designer explained. Other numbers, such astartan varsity and short-sleeve tuxedo jackets, had some heavy padding,further feeding into this season’s combative theme.
Browne didnot skimp on the fabrics, either. Both collections impressed withembroidered seersuckers, noble silk jacquards and madras plaidsdeveloped especially for the show, along with Browne’s very ownregistered tartan pattern.
Alberta Ferretti's "Rainbow Week" sweaters are back. The designer closed her #MFW show with a few day-of-the-week sweaters, which first debuted on the catwalk last January as part of the pre-fall 2017 collection. #wwdfashion (📷: @delphineachard)