“When you go very far one way, you get in a mood to swing back the other way,” said Tom Ford. And swing he did.
A year after making his London runway debut with a collection that was,as he put it, “beaded, fringed, embroidered, colorful, blah, blah,blah,” Ford’s fall effort was light years away from that maximalistmemory.
It was a streamlined and strong lineup, from the simplevelvet shift that opened the show to Stella Tennant’s finale look — anaustere black cashmere felt gown with built-in poncho, somethingGeorgiaO’Keeffe might have worn. Santa Fe, N.M., and London, Ford’stwoprincipal residences, fed the twin themes of the show: iconicstylesfrom the American West and the pert proportions of the SwingingSixties.
Forgetting the fishnet hose and the cowboy-style bootswith iron spikeheels, the designer replaced overt sexiness with asporty allure. Wooltunics and tops had simple necklines that wereeither slashed orlace-up; hooded sweater dresses came with kangaroopockets.
Itwasn’t all quiet fare, though. Cue the red crocskirt suit with boots tomatch, and Karen Elson in a color-blocked,laser-cut fox chubbie. (Oldhabits die hard.)
But the look thatwill send Twitter intooverdrive is Ford’s sparkling dress bearing thenumber 61 — “My year ofbirth,” he said with a groan. It’s actually ariff on the $65counterfeit Ford football jersey that Jay Z has beenwearing to performin stadiums. “I knocked off the knockoff — insequins,” Ford deadpanned.
Alberta Ferretti's "Rainbow Week" sweaters are back. The designer closed her #MFW show with a few day-of-the-week sweaters, which first debuted on the catwalk last January as part of the pre-fall 2017 collection. #wwdfashion (📷: @delphineachard)