Tom Ford RTW Fall 2014

The designer's fall effort was light years away from the maximalist memory of last year's London runway debut.



“When you go very far one way, you get in a mood to swing back the other way,” said Tom Ford. And swing he did.

A year after making his London runway debut with a collection that was, as he put it, “beaded, fringed, embroidered, colorful, blah, blah, blah,” Ford’s fall effort was light years away from that maximalist memory.

It was a streamlined and strong lineup, from the simple velvet shift that opened the show to Stella Tennant’s finale look — an austere black cashmere felt gown with built-in poncho, something Georgia O’Keeffe might have worn. Santa Fe, N.M., and London, Ford’s two principal residences, fed the twin themes of the show: iconic styles from the American West and the pert proportions of the Swinging Sixties.

Forgetting the fishnet hose and the cowboy-style boots with iron spike heels, the designer replaced overt sexiness with a sporty allure. Wool tunics and tops had simple necklines that were either slashed or lace-up; hooded sweater dresses came with kangaroo pockets.

It wasn’t all quiet fare, though. Cue the red croc skirt suit with boots to match, and Karen Elson in a color-blocked, laser-cut fox chubbie. (Old habits die hard.)

But the look that will send Twitter into overdrive is Ford’s sparkling dress bearing the number 61 — “My year of birth,” he said with a groan. It’s actually a riff on the $65 counterfeit Ford football jersey that Jay Z has been wearing to perform in stadiums. “I knocked off the knockoff — in sequins,” Ford deadpanned.

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