“When you go very far one way, you get in a mood to swing back the other way,” said Tom Ford. And swing he did.

A year after making his London runway debut with a collection that was,as he put it, “beaded, fringed, embroidered, colorful, blah, blah,blah,” Ford’s fall effort was light years away from that maximalistmemory.

It was a streamlined and strong lineup, from the simplevelvet shift that opened the show to Stella Tennant’s finale look — anaustere black cashmere felt gown with built-in poncho, somethingGeorgiaO’Keeffe might have worn. Santa Fe, N.M., and London, Ford’stwoprincipal residences, fed the twin themes of the show: iconicstylesfrom the American West and the pert proportions of the SwingingSixties.

Forgetting the fishnet hose and the cowboy-style bootswith iron spikeheels, the designer replaced overt sexiness with asporty allure. Wooltunics and tops had simple necklines that wereeither slashed orlace-up; hooded sweater dresses came with kangaroopockets.

Itwasn’t all quiet fare, though. Cue the red crocskirt suit with boots tomatch, and Karen Elson in a color-blocked,laser-cut fox chubbie. (Oldhabits die hard.)

But the look thatwill send Twitter intooverdrive is Ford’s sparkling dress bearing thenumber 61 — “My year ofbirth,” he said with a groan. It’s actually ariff on the $65counterfeit Ford football jersey that Jay Z has beenwearing to performin stadiums. “I knocked off the knockoff — insequins,” Ford deadpanned.

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