Attitude adjustment. That best explains the difference between TomFord’s splashy return to the runway last season and his new springcollection. The aristocratic mansion was traded in for a low-lit roomlined with mirrored walls, and the soundtrack moaned with Chris Isaak’s“Wicked Games.” As for the clothes, Ford dialed down fall’s overpoweringstatement to just powerful.

It was Ford in his element.

Cravinga “strong, powerful woman,” he cast the first four models because oftheir shoulders and thighs — toned like thoroughbreds — outfitting themin skintight leather minis quilted in chevron patterns. With theexception of a brown cocoon leather jacket, a couple of sharp-shoulderedsuits and two very chic cropped furs, the clothes were bound to thebody. Even the shoes and thigh-high boots laced up like corsets for yourextremities. And that was the daywear.

In light of spring’sleaner, shorter proportions, Ford sought to dazzle with surfaceinterest. Inspired by the paintings of Mark Bradford and José Parlá,Ford cast his finale looks in webby lace and multicolored metallicmosaic embroideries that lit up the room.

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