“It is aspirational yet affordable, inspirational yet attainable.” Such was the tag line atop Hilfiger’s show notes, and the designer knows of what he speaks. Straightforward sportswear is Hilfiger’s bread and butter, and for women’s he kept a strong focus on swingy jackets, basic turtlenecks and wide-legged pants, in shades of taupe, navy and dusty-pink (a softer take on his typical all-American palette). Hilfiger’s coats, in particular, had a classic vibe: there was a beige wool number with wide back vents and a portrait collar, a simple navy cashmere peacoat and a tan cotton trench, versatile pieces that will no doubt please buyers. And while the silk and jersey dresses, strappy and skin-exposing, distracted from the efficiency of Hilfiger’s lineup, the rest of the sportswear was terrific.
In men’s wear, Hilfiger restored sportswear to prominence after last season’s suits-only lineup. Even faded denim gained acceptance — a sign of the times, perhaps. Turtlenecks in a range of gauges looked sophisticated under anything from a glen plaid trench to a shearling bomber and a double-breasted, pinstripe suit. Although the show failed to define the Tommy Hilfiger man, it had polish and ample commercial appeal.