Here’s guessing that any of the 600-odd people sitting in LincolnCenter’s big studio on Sunday night at eight o’clock would have bet therent that the Tommy Hilfiger show would be themed to some variation onpreppy. The money goes to whoever had “bohemian prep,” as confirmed byHilfiger a few days prior to his show, before launching into a list ofhis beloved rock 'n' roll influences. Yes, there were shades of PattiHansen and Marianne Faithfull in the maxi coats, velvet blazers andfedoras. But what stood out more was how remarkably controlled andexpensive everything looked. Hilfiger dug into men’s wear — mannishtailoring, heavy-duty utility wear and foulard prints — and blew themout into an array of Ivy League threads with a subtext of cool. Navy,burgundy and gray were the big colors on chunky knits, such as waffledcapes that were cropped in the front and toggled down the back. Twocashmere cableknit sweaters were paired with dark, pony hair skirts for alook that was positively rich. Likewise, the extra-long, extra-wide legtrousers and herringbone printed silks done as blouses andshirtdresses. Hilfiger got creative with fabrications, showing coatedtrenches and plaid printed shearlings — a neat trick — but stopped shortof overdoing the kitschy accessories. There was a wink-wink with thepenny loafer pumps and kilty shoes — but not one wink too many.

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