Ever the flag-waving patriot, Tommy Hilfiger is feeling particularlyproud to be an American this spring. Maybe it’s the election year. “Wewanted to own and celebrate red, white and blue,” he said backstagebefore his show. “We always do, but lately we haven’t put it on therunway.” Consider it done. In addition to reviving his classic colorscheme, Hilfiger wanted to brush up two of his original motifs —nautical and safari, which he featured in his original 1985 collection.Staged on the High Line, prime positioning to capitalize on thewaterfront breeze of the Hudson, the lineup held up to his word.

Sailingmotifs, ahoy! Many were ship-shape, as in the beachy trapezemaxidresses with rope straps and breton striped trompe l’oeil shirts;others ran aground — the head-to-toe striped suits were a tad tooearnest. As a whole, the look gained momentum as the show went on withsuccesses coming in wide-leg patchwork twill trousers, dress versions ofpreppy varsity sweaters and a light linen shirtdress with leatherdetails. The most interesting use of red, white and blue was slickleather dresses done in a mix of stripes. Yet for all the emphasis onthe patriotic palette, there was a great deal of washed-out sandy tones,too. They looked crisp and clean, though not obviously safari-esque, oncable knits and summery leathers.

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