“It’s about relaxed American glamour — chic, wholesome, but sexy,” said Hilfiger before his show. His American girl was indeed chic, a tourist in Europe perhaps, her wardrobe packed with silky blouses, cropped loose trousers, and plenty of easy cocktail dresses (for the pool, there was a terrific backless maillot). The Hilfiger hues of navy and white were shot through with orange (“Orange for me is the new red,” he explained), used to sporty effect on a striped sweater dress. Jackets had volume, as with the gazar coats and power-shouldered blazers, and details came in the form of braided straps and tasseled belts, but the runway was refreshingly free of trickiness this time out. This was clean, straightforward sportswear that should appeal to the kind of sophisticate Hilfiger is courting.

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