“American prep meets magpie traveler,” informed Tory Burch, who,during a preview, described a woman who spices up her classic wardrobewith special items picked up along her journeys. That sentiment cameacross with savvy panache in Burch’s spring collection.

Sheupdated several classic silhouettes with adornments, embroidery andstriking motifs — a wheat theme was worked into prints, embellishmentsand even the look of the models’ plaited hair. Her artsy touches (heavybeading, raffia, fringe) could have easily swerved into hippieterritory, but not here: The fringed crochet raffia coat with a guipurelace skirt had a casual elegance, as did the designer’s new take ontie-dye, hand-done by women artisans in Guinea as part of Burch’sfoundation work. A languid skirt from the group, teamed with a simplewhite top, looked more Madison Avenue than music festival.

With agrowing network of her own stores in which to experiment (and a groupof big-money types eagerly waiting to see if and when she’ll go public),Burch is now playing with more luxe details. She demonstrated thatthroughout, particularly with the evening wear. An organza dress with aFifties elegance and adorned with a gold honeycomb pattern enhanced theromantic feel of the collection.

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