Among the many references that worked their way into Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock’s spring collection for Vena Cava were tribal, by way of beading and a mask print; sexy noir via fishnet underpinning, and an overt ode to punk through safety pin details and splatter-paint motifs. Underneath it all, Vena Cava’s signature silks — filmy shorts and dresses, the best of which cut away into trailing tails — united the lineup in a pretty but not precious way. Romantic elements tempered the tough; novelty countered commercial for an exercise in cool, controlled variety.

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