With all its moodiness, mystery and steam, film noir seems made for fashion romance. The genre inspired Vera Wang’s fall collection, and it worked like a dream. A very sexy one. Wang’s artful aesthetic is quite specific and, as such, difficult to evolve. Here, she did so to perfection, heightening the seduction factor while retaining every bit of the alluring bohemian facade that makes her clothes so distinctive.
To set the mood, Wang had her girls naughtily coiffed à la Brigitte Bardot, and dressed them mostly, though not exclusively, in black. Throughout she retained her typical flamboyance — the spilling collars; the abundant sleeves, often worn askew; the controlled fluff of tulle corsage or fur dollop; the glorious jewelry, here realized in multistrand seed pearls. The news came in a reining in of the silhouette via a smart focus on tailoring of the femme fatale sort, delivered in close-to-the-body lines that contrasted with the aforementioned flourishes. One look paired a belted jacket with peplum of flyaway fur over biker shorts; another, a sleek blazer with a knitted jumpsuit, its sporty attitude tempered by snappy tuxedo stripes.
Wang went for more overt glamour as well, with an intricately draped asymmetric blouse over black pants, and, for the dangerous coquette, peekaboo party frocks. It all made for a quietly sublime collection, perfect for the real-life siren with an artistic streak.