Who says sexy girls can’t be “mathletes”? Not Donatella Versace, who closed the Milan season with an appealing, sassy collection that was all about geometry rendered in typical Versace-esque proportions, which is to say, tight and tiny.
The key shape: a little structured dress with a bustier bodice and skirt sculpted round or square-ish to create the illusion of a tiny waist. A variation on a house classic, for sure, but Versace didn’t fall prey to same old, same old, instead delivering zip via zippers and sweetness via hearts. The first came with a single industrial zipper up the back of a dress; in random multiples, splicing a dress into a complicated tangrams mosaic, or as decoration, worked into big, craftsy hearts that were the collection’s primary decorative motif. These added another graphic element and, when repeated as giant crystals on shoes, a controlled dose of bling.


The other major decoration resulted from a collaboration with illustrator Julie Verhoeven, who created two fanciful collage pieces using expressions of Versace iconography, with a focus on the Medusa. Her canvases were translated into festive prints, which Versace used judiciously in a swimsuit and three gowns, the boldest of which, a billowing affair cut oh-so-low in back, played on that ever-delightful dichotomy between naughty and nice. You could call it smart and sexy. And in fashion’s math book, that should make for a winning equation.

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