Minutes before her spring show, Victoria Beckham was the picture ofcalm backstage. Her relaxed demeanor extended to her charmingcollection, steeped in an easy attitude and what she called a“boyish-girlish — as opposed to mannish” sense of gender play.

Beckham transformed Cafe Rouge, near gritty Penn Station, into agleaming white box, the perfect backdrop for the crisp lineup. “Ifocused a lot on shape, both literally and conceptually,” she said. Shemade that point effectively with the first few black-and-white looks — aprecise coat shown over a languid white top with boyish shorts cut justbelow the knee offered a chic approach to summer dressing. So did thepretty tops with flouncy hems. These, too, were worn over long shorts,but could stand on their own as minidresses. Other more structured,form-fitting minis were softened with a swath a white pleats that peekedout from underneath.Geometry came via architectural triangles thatwere placed in bold ways on several pieces, including a fuchsia topshown with a short flared skirt. If the look had a strictness, it wasplayed with a girly card. The sense of lightness and fluidity charmed.“It’s a completely different proportion and exactly what I’d want towear now,” Beckham said. “It feels like me.”

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