Having found his business in a well-documented state of flux, Zac Posen is clearly making an effort to adjust to a market less tolerant of the showmanship for which he’s previously been known. The collection he showed Monday morning was pleasantly stripped down with an emphasis on structure, clean tailoring and a subtle, earthy palette. Day clothes made a case for smart sportswear, as seen in the precise lines of a techy satin coat worn with a simple blouse and lean, high-waisted tuxedo trousers. Also key to the collection were short dresses decorated with sharp architectural details, such as corsetry effects and linear seams at the waist. A sleek-but-sturdy gray wool bodice was fused in charming counterpoint to a blush silk skater skirt. As for cocktail hour, Posen worked pretty pink florals, fitted and flared into organza skirts, and more structured, strapless styles, some layered over unnecessary jersey turtlenecks. Notably absent this season were Posen’s grand gowns, which don’t seem to fit with his newfound restraint.

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