Having found his business in a well-documented state of flux, ZacPosen is clearly making an effort to adjust to a market less tolerant ofthe showmanship for which he’s previously been known. The collection heshowed Monday morning was pleasantly stripped down with an emphasis onstructure, clean tailoring and a subtle, earthy palette. Day clothesmade a case for smart sportswear, as seen in the precise lines of atechy satin coat worn with a simple blouse and lean, high-waisted tuxedotrousers. Also key to the collection were short dresses decorated withsharp architectural details, such as corsetry effects and linear seamsat the waist. A sleek-but-sturdy gray wool bodice was fused in charmingcounterpoint to a blush silk skater skirt. As for cocktail hour, Posenworked pretty pink florals, fitted and flared into organza skirts, andmore structured, strapless styles, some layered over unnecessary jerseyturtlenecks. Notably absent this season were Posen’s grand gowns, whichdon’t seem to fit with his newfound restraint.

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