“American sportswear has no purpose,” Posen proclaimed last week, and certainly on his runway it doesn’t. “I’ve come to the realization that I don’t fit into that category,” he said. “And it’s a relief.” On Thursday Posen celebrated self-acceptance his favorite way, via high-voltage party attire. Sizzle it did — most looks were supercurvy or supershort — but he kept the mood soft and pretty with an ingenue pastel palette. The approach had a charming siren-meets-schoolgirl vibe, which Posen delivered with considerable polish, thanks in part to his newly tony fabrics. Some of the best dresses came in lamé or animal prints, even these gentled-up in pink and pistachio. And he showed some lovely goddess gowns as well.
Still, with the hits came some misses, the looks with fake curves created by padded undergarments, a runway trick that didn’t add much. Most puzzling, however, is why Posen continues to limit himself to over-the-top eveningwear, especially since we all know he likes to think big. Such a narrow plane can’t support the booming business Posen undoubtedly has in mind. His aversion to day clothes is too bad for another reason, as well. Twice, when he offered teasers, in a pink suede motorcycle jacket and vest with a miniskirt and pedal-pushers, they looked terrific.