LONDON — Alice Temperley’s Alice by Temperley diffusion line is growing into a full collection for fall 2013, with the expansion of categories including eveningwear, outerwear and leather tailoring.
Over the last year, sales of the label, which was launched in 2009, have grown 30 percent and a spokesperson for the brand said that sales for fall 2013 are already expected to beat that figure.
The early Twentieth Century socialite, muse and patroness Marchesa Luisa Casati inspired the latest collection, which WWD previewed at the Temperley London headquarters in Mayfair. There was an emphasis on full-length evening gowns in lace, mesh and spot tulle in a palette of scarlet, cream, black and Wedgewood blue. A lace print on silk satin and a wallpaper print added interest in more gowns and jumpsuits, while staple knitwear was chunky and big. Leather, one of the line’s signatures, came in a tightly tailored jacket with a peplum hem, as well as a butter soft black leather minidress with suede panels.
The collection is selling now to wholesalers and will hit stores in July, with prices from 55 pounds (about $87 at current exchange) for a scarf to 600 pounds ($944) for a signature leather piece. And while it won’t be shown on the catwalk in London next week, the brand is considering an on-schedule presentation next season and a catwalk show for the one after that.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast