NEW YORK — A feisty new trade show called Capsule debuted to instant buzz and acclaim during a crowded New York market week. Capsule’s organizers—the owners of the showroom and public relations firm BPMW—also known as Brand Pimps, aggregated 50 niche brands to form a very focused offering of the most edgy and directional men’s wear.
“Like Project used to be” was a common refrain among attendees complimenting the relatively intimate setting and independent spirit, the biggest sign of which was its location in the Angel Orensanz Foundation, an historic synagogue turned hip event space, on the Lower East Side.
BPMW was Project’s PR agency in that show’s early years. Since Project is now huge and firmly established, Capsule and a few other events are vying to showcase a new crop of indie designers such as Yoko Devereaux, B.Son and Harmon.
Capsule booths were comprised only of garment racks and uniform furniture. This allowed the smallest of startups to stand next to brands with bigger budgets, such as Gilded Age, Umbro by Kim Jones (now footwear only) and Mike & Chris, and be judged solely on product, not presentation.
The most crowded booth belonged to Public School, a new collection by Dao-Yi Chow, the former Sean John creative director who now owns the Miami boutique Arrive, and Maxwell Osborne, both of whom attended New York City public schools. With lots of black leather, hardware, structured shoulders and neck treatments, military details like epaulets and gun flaps, this streetwear is tough but never thuggish. The collection is loaded with thoughtful, versatile details.
So many designers found inspiration in the early MTV era that at times the trade show resembled an ’80s costume party. But who can fault them for wanting to relive their simpler, younger, neon-colored days?
A large pixel print from Federation was evocative of Apple IIe and Atari. The label, from New Zealand, even had stonewashed jeans.
For the perfect accessory to this look, search no further than Super Sunglasses. The new Italian eyewear brand offers bright plastic shades, similar to Wayfarers but more rounded in shape, in 38 colors. The lenses are made by Zeiss, so you can sport a vintage look without sacrificing eye protection.
How can you not evoke the ’80s with a name like Cassette? The L.A. denim brand, designed by the former creative director of Hudson, was a leader in the trend toward colored denim. It added tangerine orange for spring. It also introduced a cutoff short and a new slim, dropped-crotch jean, designed so guys can enjoy a little extra space without having to yank their waistbands down too low.
No Mas, created by two former sportswriters, trades in nostalgia in a clever and subversive way. It sources vintage sweatshirts from Champion—the ones with the heavyweight, low-shrinking reverse weave have gained a cult following—and reworks these collector’s items into memorials of disgraced athletes (e.g., Mike Tyson, Pete Rose, Darryl Strawberry), bygone teams (Brooklyn Dodgers) and institutions (Havana Yacht Club). Vintage Starter jackets receive similar but more-political treatment.
Daniel and Michael Casarella, the brothers behind Barking Irons, launched a range of jeans in three cuts and various stains and washes. They also offered their first-ever leather outerwear piece, a motorcycle jacket.
In terms of fraternal love, Barking Irons was outnumbered by Apolis Activism, a California-casual label that three surf-loving brothers from Santa Barbara created to help support children’s charities in India and Uganda.
The friends behind Fremont are sentimental about desert resorts in the ’60s, and named their label after Fremont Street in Las Vegas. But don’t expect retro, Rat Pack styling. Fremont creates a modern silhouette with spare, tailored pieces.
Capsule hosted a strong Danish contingent. Wood Wood and Won Hundred offered clean, salable sportswear. Henrik Vibskov mashed up playful accessories, sartorial fabrics and bold graphic elements. Pa:Nuu showed neon colors and a Space Invaders print. All are from Denmark, the new Belgium.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion