The Capsule New York show swelled to a record 75 vendors, seemingly shoehorned into every last nook of the Angel Orensanz Foundation, a former Lower East Side synagogue. Among them were numerous fledgling labels and first-timers to New York market week. And these progressive fashion labels were focused not on rapid expansion but on attracting a dedicated following.
Perhaps only die-hard denim aficionados see the allure of 24-oz. denim, for example. But such connoisseurs were abuzz about Naked & Famous, the Montreal denim label, which claimed the heaviest pair of jeans in history.
The Fred Perry by Raf Simons line keeps gaining followers and the bright color, avant-garde cutting and sheer overlays brought his fashion-forward vision to classic polo shirts.
General trends at Capsule were very much in line with those on the European runways. Relaxed tailoring, light texture, washed fabrics, tight organic patterns and transparency were dominant themes. Workwear and outdoorsy Americana remain influential, as seen in the collections of Garbstore, Yuketen and Post Overalls, to name a few. A bestseller for Post Overalls, a Japanese label marketing to the U.S. for the first time, was a denim utility smock.
Gilded Age designer Stefan Miljanic took inspiration from the simple pleasures of a picnic. The denim-driven collection was outdoorsy, unprecious and faded to a vintage patina.
Americana was the watchword for heritage footwear brands getting into the progressive market with spin-offs such as Florsheim by Duckie Brown, Mark McNairy for Bass Weejuns, and Cole, Rood & Haan, a new heritage-inspired line from Cole Haan.
While the recession has resulted in some high-profile designer boutiques having to close, others have found a way to leverage their cachet: wholesaling their private label collections. Oak, Bblessing, April 77, Wood Wood and B Store were among the boutiques that came to Capsule as vendors as well as buyers.
Assembly New York, the Lower East Side boutique, launched a namesake collection as well. The high-end pieces, such as Italian linen blazers and drawstring pants, may be basic in terms of their neutral palette and lack of decoration, but their silhouettes are fashion-forward and designed with trendy styling habits in mind. For example, the blazers have no buttons at the wrist, since the sleeves will likely be rolled up. Shorts have attached pieces of leggings, for a contemporary layered look.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty