The Capsule New York show swelled to a record 75 vendors, seemingly shoehorned into every last nook of the Angel Orensanz Foundation, a former Lower East Side synagogue. Among them were numerous fledgling labels and first-timers to New York market week. And these progressive fashion labels were focused not on rapid expansion but on attracting a dedicated following.
Perhaps only die-hard denim aficionados see the allure of 24-oz. denim, for example. But such connoisseurs were abuzz about Naked & Famous, the Montreal denim label, which claimed the heaviest pair of jeans in history.
The Fred Perry by Raf Simons line keeps gaining followers and the bright color, avant-garde cutting and sheer overlays brought his fashion-forward vision to classic polo shirts.
General trends at Capsule were very much in line with those on the European runways. Relaxed tailoring, light texture, washed fabrics, tight organic patterns and transparency were dominant themes. Workwear and outdoorsy Americana remain influential, as seen in the collections of Garbstore, Yuketen and Post Overalls, to name a few. A bestseller for Post Overalls, a Japanese label marketing to the U.S. for the first time, was a denim utility smock.
Gilded Age designer Stefan Miljanic took inspiration from the simple pleasures of a picnic. The denim-driven collection was outdoorsy, unprecious and faded to a vintage patina.
Americana was the watchword for heritage footwear brands getting into the progressive market with spin-offs such as Florsheim by Duckie Brown, Mark McNairy for Bass Weejuns, and Cole, Rood & Haan, a new heritage-inspired line from Cole Haan.
While the recession has resulted in some high-profile designer boutiques having to close, others have found a way to leverage their cachet: wholesaling their private label collections. Oak, Bblessing, April 77, Wood Wood and B Store were among the boutiques that came to Capsule as vendors as well as buyers.
Assembly New York, the Lower East Side boutique, launched a namesake collection as well. The high-end pieces, such as Italian linen blazers and drawstring pants, may be basic in terms of their neutral palette and lack of decoration, but their silhouettes are fashion-forward and designed with trendy styling habits in mind. For example, the blazers have no buttons at the wrist, since the sleeves will likely be rolled up. Shorts have attached pieces of leggings, for a contemporary layered look.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)