From pleated blouses and pencil skirts to sweater dresses with overscaled cables, London fashion had its discreet — and indiscreet — charms.
Graeme Black: Graeme Black's runway debut for his own line was inspired by the designs of William Morris and Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Black, who spent years working behind the scenes at Armani and Ferragamo, sent out a trunkful of great-looking tailored pieces, including tartan pencil skirts in muted tones, fitted crocodile jackets, alligator waistcoats and gray tweeds shot through with small squares of cobalt blue. But it wasn't all about strict silhouettes: There were also pleated jersey dresses and dove gray ruffle-front organza blouses worn over matching wool skirts.
Julien Macdonald: Baby, it's cold outside. But no matter how far that mercury drops, some ladies will always know how to keep warm. Fox? Mink? Weasel? Julien Macdonald had stacks of it, in the shape of tunics, minis, sleeveless vests and swingy coats. But this fun, youthful collection wasn't all about the superrich on the block. There were piles of his signature luscious knits and woolens, too. The designer sent out cable-knit sweater dresses, tunics and jackets in addition to neat, double-breasted wool coats in shades of saffron and navy. For evening, however, the collection took Macdonald's usual glitzier turn, with short black dresses dripping with big, chunky sequins or feathers that had been brushed in gold leaf: looks for the gal who wants to make a splash everywhere from Knightsbridge to Moscow.
Peter Jensen: For fall, Peter Jensen was inspired by "Nuts in May," Mike Leigh's 1976 television play about an English camping trip. His models, for instance, disappeared into tents at the end of the runway. But when it came to the clothes, the designer wove in the references with a lighter touch: The countryside was there in a tiered, cream silk skirt printed with burnished fall leaves, a moss green puff-ball party dress layered with black taffeta and a silvery lamé coat that nodded to campers' foil blankets. There were some glam pieces that echoed the Seventies themselves, too, such as a yellow satin top with a knife-pleated collar.Mulberry: Mulberry's girl embraced her kooky side in a bright, breezy presentation that showcased the talents of Stuart Vevers and the brand's new footwear designer, Jonathan Kelsey. The ready-to-wear collection was eye-poppingly bright, with vast, shaggy, lipstick-red Tibetan lambskin coats; lemon yellow minidresses, and rhubarb-toned, fake fur bomber jackets. Shrunken, charcoal-colored cashmere cardigans worn over bright minidresses offered an essential bit of contrast. Bags came in a rainbow of shades, too: There were tangerine patent clutches, royal blue ponyskin shoulder bags and oversize lizard holdalls in raspberry and bright blue. There was some bold footwear from Kelsey, including flat, lace-up shoes in fuchsia suede and sexy knee-high riding boots.
Allegra Hicks: This dark, romantic — and ultraglamorous — collection was heavy on velvet, fur and earthy tones of eggplant, chocolate and charcoal. There were thigh-length evening jackets fashioned from alternating strips of fur and metallic fabric; knee-length dresses with cutout shoulders and pleated fronts, and floaty maxidresses cinched with wide gold corset belts. Even Allegra Hicks' staples — such as jersey day dresses and coats — had a sexy edge, with details such as ultralow necklines, draped bell sleeves or metallic flourishes.
Unconditional: Philip Stephens' fall collection was inspired by the bored aristos of "Gosford Park," right down to its props, which included dusty library books and a live Chihuahua that various models cradled during the show. Stephens' palette was mostly black and gray, punctuated by a variety of reds. As for the silhouettes, the designer kept them simple, and the result was such relaxed, elegant looks as bias-cut burnt red silk slips, pleated silk skirts worn with wraparound silk blouses and billowing terra-cotta silk day dresses with smocking across the front.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over the top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty