Downtown chicks, you're in luck. Designers have fall covered with everything from asymmetric cuts to camp-chic layers.
Yigal Azrouël: Yigal Azrouël's had his eye on the New York downtown girl, he said preshow. And if his fall lineup is any indication, he's been watching her closely. All the cool city chick basics — from slim trousers to leather jackets — were covered. Asymmetric seams and folds added an arty intrigue to his streetwear. And Azrouël once again proved his skill with contradictions, particularly in playing masculine against feminine, as in a silk henley tucked into an embroidered striped skirt. While there were plenty of men's wear and sporty references, it was the sculptural ruffles and extra attention to cocktail and eveningwear — a return to his roots, not all of it successful — that pushed things forward.
BCBG Max Azria: Max and Lubov Azria had a lot of tricks up their sleeves — make that dresses — showing frocks with origami pleats, jersey twisted into rosettes and gowns with gauzy, asymmetric ruffles hanging off shoulders. When they showed restraint, however, the gentle pintucking and slim silhouettes worked well, most notably on a cream silk crepe dress, gathered at the back, and a slim heather beige jersey number. Refreshingly, the season's dark, stormy colors were cast aside for soft, subtle tones, as with a tan wool twill coat and a pale gray hammered silk satin dress that seemed to float down the runway.
Generra: With former creative director Pina Ferlisi having just decamped to Coach, who's next in line to take over the reins at Generra? Apparently, no one. A spokesman said there were no immediate plans to fill the vacated position, noting that many in the design team have been with the company for years. And that, judging from its newest merch, should suit its customer just fine. The collection for fall still has a strong grasp on a downtown cool ethos: effortless chunky knits, military-style coats, leather jackets and silk shirtdresses. Ultimately, this is the stuff of which an urban girl's wardrobe is made, right down to the lengthy scarves and aviator frames.
Yeohlee: Yeohlee Teng's show had its charming moments, but overall, it was an erratic collection with a mix of peculiar silhouettes — including a cube skirt — that were simply unflattering. More successful looks such as a skinny tunic in plum taffeta and a flared trenchcoat dress showed the designer at the top of her architectural game. And her terrific signature outerwear, as in boldly-collared Shaker-inspired jackets, quilted shrug wraps and a belted lantern coat in alpaca and mohair, rounded out the lineup.Douglas Hannant: Inspired by the contours of ballerinas, Douglas Hannant turned out delicate dresses with plenty of texture, such as a glazed lace gown with a horsehair bodice, and a pleated crinkled silk shift in deep aubergine. He played up volume, too, though it was carefully placed, most effectively in coats. Lean, body-skimming gowns moved with attached swaying scarves, while a silver Lurex ballerina dress was given a slim bodice and a flouncy skirt. Still, a few of the fuller looks — a black coque-feather cocoon jacket, a shredded organza dress — were overwrought.
Boy by Band of Outsiders: For his wonderful second collection, Scott Sternberg said he was thinking about camping — luxe style. Most girls, though, wouldn't dare waste his boyish plaids, cashmere layers and raccoon fur trimmings sitting around the campfire. "I wanted to make the clichés of American sportswear feel cool," said the designer, so sleeves were lopped off, blazers were shrunken and patterns and textures mingled to pitch-perfect effect.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion