Downtown chicks, you're in luck. Designers have fall covered with everything from asymmetric cuts to camp-chic layers.
Yigal Azrouël: Yigal Azrouël's had his eye on the New York downtown girl, he said preshow. And if his fall lineup is any indication, he's been watching her closely. All the cool city chick basics — from slim trousers to leather jackets — were covered. Asymmetric seams and folds added an arty intrigue to his streetwear. And Azrouël once again proved his skill with contradictions, particularly in playing masculine against feminine, as in a silk henley tucked into an embroidered striped skirt. While there were plenty of men's wear and sporty references, it was the sculptural ruffles and extra attention to cocktail and eveningwear — a return to his roots, not all of it successful — that pushed things forward.
BCBG Max Azria: Max and Lubov Azria had a lot of tricks up their sleeves — make that dresses — showing frocks with origami pleats, jersey twisted into rosettes and gowns with gauzy, asymmetric ruffles hanging off shoulders. When they showed restraint, however, the gentle pintucking and slim silhouettes worked well, most notably on a cream silk crepe dress, gathered at the back, and a slim heather beige jersey number. Refreshingly, the season's dark, stormy colors were cast aside for soft, subtle tones, as with a tan wool twill coat and a pale gray hammered silk satin dress that seemed to float down the runway.
Generra: With former creative director Pina Ferlisi having just decamped to Coach, who's next in line to take over the reins at Generra? Apparently, no one. A spokesman said there were no immediate plans to fill the vacated position, noting that many in the design team have been with the company for years. And that, judging from its newest merch, should suit its customer just fine. The collection for fall still has a strong grasp on a downtown cool ethos: effortless chunky knits, military-style coats, leather jackets and silk shirtdresses. Ultimately, this is the stuff of which an urban girl's wardrobe is made, right down to the lengthy scarves and aviator frames.
Yeohlee: Yeohlee Teng's show had its charming moments, but overall, it was an erratic collection with a mix of peculiar silhouettes — including a cube skirt — that were simply unflattering. More successful looks such as a skinny tunic in plum taffeta and a flared trenchcoat dress showed the designer at the top of her architectural game. And her terrific signature outerwear, as in boldly-collared Shaker-inspired jackets, quilted shrug wraps and a belted lantern coat in alpaca and mohair, rounded out the lineup.Douglas Hannant: Inspired by the contours of ballerinas, Douglas Hannant turned out delicate dresses with plenty of texture, such as a glazed lace gown with a horsehair bodice, and a pleated crinkled silk shift in deep aubergine. He played up volume, too, though it was carefully placed, most effectively in coats. Lean, body-skimming gowns moved with attached swaying scarves, while a silver Lurex ballerina dress was given a slim bodice and a flouncy skirt. Still, a few of the fuller looks — a black coque-feather cocoon jacket, a shredded organza dress — were overwrought.
Boy by Band of Outsiders: For his wonderful second collection, Scott Sternberg said he was thinking about camping — luxe style. Most girls, though, wouldn't dare waste his boyish plaids, cashmere layers and raccoon fur trimmings sitting around the campfire. "I wanted to make the clichés of American sportswear feel cool," said the designer, so sleeves were lopped off, blazers were shrunken and patterns and textures mingled to pitch-perfect effect.
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)
Breaking News: @hedislimane joins @celine as its new artistic, creative and image director. One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Slimane is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week. It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation – and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade – as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, between 2012 and 2016 – all the while maintaining a close relationship with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
“Personally I believe the Eighties have been the richest and more vivacious period for international fashion,” Giorgio Armani said when asked what his favorite decade of fashion is. It was a moment of disruption and experimentation and only thinking back to the first years of that decade is always an emotion for me, for what they have meant to me and my work.” The influence is clear in @giorgioarmani spring 2018 collection, pictured here, which was full of bright colors and unexpected prints. Read more about which decades designers loved most on WWD.com #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
For Lady Gaga’s only Italian show on her “Joanne World Tour,” the singer wore a range of @versace_official outfits. The standout piece: this custom-made bodysuit inspired by the brand’s spring 2018 collection. #wwdfashion (RG: @ladygaga)
@_camillaruth_ is expanding on the wellness-craze concept with @westbourne – a new NYC restaurant that’s both a healthy-minded café as well as a business that gives back to the community. Marcus works with the Robin Hood foundation to give back to The Door, a non-profit providing youth development services, and also hires employees through The Door. Read our full interview with Marcus on giving back through food on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)