NEW YORK — The dress continues, but come resort, they are often long and full-skirted, at least for several contemporary labels at Designers & Agents.
The show’s holiday and resort edition, which ended its three-day run at the Starrett-Lehigh building on Tuesday, was, as usual, a small affair. That said, there were plenty of trends between the 40 or so labels on display, including a continuation of the jacket and tunics, ethnic embroidery, jumpsuits, polkadots and colorful prints such as tie-dyes, dip-dyes and ombrés.
Henri Bendel vice president and fashion director Ann Watson cited S-Sung, where she found some of the “freshest assortment of cotton-printed dresses,” as a D&A highlight.
“I also loved seeing the continuation of the jacket, the whole pink palette for resort, the polkadots, seeing freshness in prints,” Watson said. “In the more casual market, we are seeing ombrés, and tie-dyes and dip-dyes continue.”
Helen Yi, owner of the Helen Yi boutique in Chicago, said she was looking for “easy pieces, things that you can take away and that weren’t very expensive” for resort. “Dresses continue to be important, and there was a lot of layering on the contemporary level, particularly this new minimal layered look.”
While the economy and steep gas prices continue to be a key factor with vendors and retailers, there was still business to be made at D&A.
At Development by Erica Davies, bestsellers included a gunmetal-colored tiered skirt for $125 wholesale, and a pleated georgette blouse, for $158. Kimberly Hartman, director of sales for the label, said, “We just shipped fall, and it’s selling. The buyers are encouraged and hopeful that the momentum continues.”
Barron Duquette Salon, which was recently started by Katayone Adeli and Joie alum Sean Barron, had top sellers such as silk cargo pants for $147 wholesale, a one-shoulder zebra top for $284, and a strapless, “I Dream of Jeannie”-like jumpsuit, for $134.
Also new to the show was L’Agence by the Los Angeles Margaret Maldonado Agency, which represents top fashion stylists, makeup artists and photographers, including Andrea Liberman; Simone Harouche, and Maryam Malakpour. The 30-piece launch resort collection was designed by Harouche and Malakpour, and inspired by the kinds of things their clients would wear, including draped black fishtail skirts, Henley dresses, and racer-back tunics. The pieces, which wholesale on average from $38 to $290, can be mixed, matched and layered. The stylist influence will rotate each season, though the spirit of the collection will remain. “We wanted to pick high-end fabrics and designs that women would love, which this season come from Maryam and Simone and their sense of the fashion world,” Dan Fishman, a partner in the label, said.
Ed Mandelbaum, who coproduces D&A with Barbara Kramer, said the show was comparable to previous August editions. “We probably had 10 percent less exhibitors than we had a year ago, but the traffic was the same,” Mandelbaum said. “People are doing business. People have to buy clothing, and stores have to shop, but they are being more picky and choosy and buying from collections that really do something for them.”
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion