NEW YORK — First, it was the men; now the women got their makeover.
Façonnable is going through a revamp, and earlier this month, the new women’s fall collection was unveiled in New York. The lineup picks up on Riviera themes — the brand was founded by Jean Goldberg in 1950 and is based in Nice, France — though the clothes are rendered with enough substance to be suitable beyond resort.
Where once women’s at Façonnable was a study in basics like cotton shirts and chinos, and accounting for just 5 percent of sales, new artistic director Daniel Kearns is looking to infuse the brand with a more fashionable sensibility and hopes to turn it into a substantial category for the company.
“My approach for the women’s wear collection was to try to create a ‘contemporary wardrobe’ using the DNA of the brand,” Kearns said. “When I think of the French Riviera I think of color, light and an easy-chic approach. Women like Romy Schneider and Grace Kelly in Cannes and Monte Carlo, the photography of Helmut Newton; it is a rich source.”
His approach, he added, was a mix of “tailoring and flou, sometimes mixed in the same piece, to create codes that can be used in the most simple pieces and to work on fit, light materials and colors.”
Highlights include a beige double-face coat for $1,295 at suggested retail, which the brand is teaming with a white cashmere turtleneck, $825, and pleated flannel pants, $475; a blush knit cashmere-and-silk top, $995, shown with a metallic leather pencil skit, $2,250, and a printed silk jacket, $1,195, with slim-cut pants for $595.
Ludovic Le Gourrièrec, who joined Façonnable in July as deputy managing director, elaborated, “It’s a completely new story we are launching in fall. It’s a complete collection, from Monday to Sunday, with evening dresses — we are a brand for the French Riviera, so there is the Cannes Film Festival.”
Lebanon-based M1 Group, which bought the company from Nordstrom in 2007 for $210 million, is looking to upgrade the brand, thus recent investments such as Kearns’ hire and new management to position it for the future.
Kearns came to Façonnable from Yves Saint Laurent, where he was men’s wear design director under Stefano Pilati, and worked with John Galliano to launch that brand’s men’s wear in 2002. He also worked as design director for men’s wear at Alexander McQueen until the designer’s 2010 death, and designed sailing collections for Louis Vuitton.
The fall looks will start arriving in Façonnable stores in April. The relaunch of women’s will correspond with a new advertising campaign photographed by Alexandre Tabaste in the South of France.
The company is also looking to wholesale the collection, and the plan is to grow the business to represent 30 percent of overall sales, or, as Le Gourrièrec said, “roughly $40 million worldwide.” The growth in women’s will also be reflected as store designs are being updated. “Today we have eight stores in the U.S. including [Manhattan’s] Fifth Avenue, Costa Mesa [Calif.], and San Francisco,” Le Gourrièrec noted. “Most of them were 95 percent men’s, and depending on the location, we will develop ladies as well.”
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)