PARIS — The hoodie is sure to figure in lists of the defining fashion trends of the Noughties.And a new decade begins, the popularity of the iconic sporty style shows no signs of abating.
On the spring runways, hoodies appeared in collections including Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière, Rick Owens, Kris Van Assche and Michael Kors.
“I like the simplicity and universal application: Christ wore a hood, the Unabomber wore a hood, Grace Jones wore a hood, Dante wore a hood,” mused Owens, whose spring collection featured a Gothic take on the style, crumpled around the neck or jutting out from it ominously.
“The hood is a permanent element in a man’s wardrobe. It has always existed as a staple in ready-to-wear and as a piece of history and costume. It has a utility function which protects, and it’s aesthetic and flattering,” added Dior Homme designer Van Assche, who also has his own label.
Indeed, hooded figures can be seen everywhere regardless of gender, age, ethnicity or occupation.
“I guess the hoodie is kind of part of the skater uniform,” shrugged Sergie Ventura, a professional skateboarder.
“It’s part of the urban wardrobe,” said Sonnet Stanfill, fashion curator for the furniture and textiles department at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. A recent acquisition by the museum, a crystal studded hoodie by Sean “Diddy” Combs, underlines that despite its humble origins — it was created in the Thirties for the American labor force — the hoodie is now also, as Stanfill explained, “iconic because it is playing with something that was sport and becoming a fashion item.”
Sportswear brands and fast-fashion retailers count the hoodie as a perennial bestseller. “The sweatshirt is a quintessential piece of American sportswear at the core of the Gap brand — I love the idea of reinventing it in different shapes this season and playing with the idea of the perfect sweatshirt; for women making the neck slightly wider, and longer through the body, and for men reworking a classic hoodie with raw edge detailing,” said Patrick Robinson, executive vice president of design for Gap Inc.
Ryan Holiday, a communications officer for American Apparel Inc., noted the hooded sweatshirt is in the retailer’s top five products globally.
“The F4597 Flex Fleece Zip Hoodie is the most popular style of hoodie for us. One new style that we think is next on the radar for men and women is the Dov’s Hoodie,” he noted.
“They are just so easy to wear. In my last collection, I took the idea of an old hoodie I have and created a cool blazer with a hood attached,” said Erin Wasson, the Texan model and designer.
Wasson counts the hoodie as her staple. “For me they are such a cool contradiction; such a correlation between hip-hop and sport and fashion,” she said. “[It’s] always been a part of my wardrobe — no matter what the trend.”
“I suspect that there’s a nomadic association that appeals to a culture that might be feeling a little overconnected and oversaturated,” said Owens, commenting on the mystery and intrigue created by wearing a hood.
“The hoodie is great. It’s like being in a cave on your own and your own world,” agreed skater Reese Forbes, who throws on his hoodie when riding his skateboard.
Although its design origins are not dissimilar to the monastic cowl, the hoodie seems to transcend trends whether it’s studded, fur-lined, logoed, zipped or unzipped.
Said Wasson: “At the end of the day you can just pop that hoodie up!”
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)