Marc Jacobs is about to get some friendly competition from his significant other. Lorenzo Martone is set to launch his first fashion project, a line of women’s swimsuits under his new Nycked label. The collection of about 20 designs, created in collaboration with jewelry designer Jules Kim, will be in stores in November.
“Swim is part of my Brazilian heritage,” said Martone. “Swimwear is considered real fashion there. When Brazilians go on vacation for four days, they bring at least four different swimsuits.”
Martone and Kim set out to create a sophisticated, fashion-forward swimwear line inspired by the gritty, urban aesthetic of Manhattan as an antidote to the cheery floral and palm prints that tend to dominate swim racks. “We saw an opportunity in the marketplace for something cooler and more downtown,” explained Martone. “Swim seems to be dominated by an L.A. aesthetic, and our collection brings a New York attitude to it.”
Nycked, pronounced “nicked,” is a play on the initials N.Y.C.
The debut collection includes flourishes such as swimsuits adorned with heat-bonded foil sequins, oversize decorative bows in ciré Lycra, bold corset lacing and lingerie-inspired lace peeking out of demi-cut bikini tops. The key color themes are black, white and red, with nude mesh overlays on some designs. The brand’s logo is a geometric bat, based on an origami construction.
Despite the sleek aesthetic of the collection, Martone and Kim stress that all the swimsuits can be worn in the water and the designs are heedful of the practical requirements of the category. “There are only sequins on the front of this bikini bottom, and not the back, so that it’s more comfortable to sit on at the edge of a pool,” Kim said.
The swimsuits will retail for about $120 to $130, with some cover-ups going up to $210. Retailers will get their first look at the line during Miami Swim Week in July, with Martone and Kim planning to show out of a private suite in a hotel. The duo are targeting trendy swim and specialty retailers, as well as some of the major chains. “We’d like to get into a Saks Fifth Avenue or Neiman Marcus,” said Martone.
Nycked is producing the collection with a specialized swimwear factory in New York, which helped transform the fanciful designs into commercially viable pieces.
The label is personally financed by Martone, who holds an M.B.A. from ESG in Paris and is also a strategist at ad agency Chandelier Creative (working on accounts like Seven For all Mankind and Melissa Shoes) and co-founder of the Arc NY talent and p.r. agency, which represents a stable of top models. Kim, a Richmond, Va., native sells her Bijules jewelry line at 35 stores and will launch two lower-priced lines, Le Bij and BJ by Jules Kim, at Urban Outfitters this fall.
One thing Martone did not do on the Nycked project is consult Marc Jacobs for advice. “Relationships are hard enough without mixing business into them,” he said of his beau. “I don’t advise mixing the personal and professional.”
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast