By  on February 4, 2008

Wayne: Inspired by haberdashery, Wayne D. Lee's collection contained excellent well-tailored pieces with a modern twist that made everything decidedly feminine.

Rag & Bone: With the 1982 film "Blade Runner" on their minds, David Neville and Marcus Wainwright sent out a stellar lineup of strong-shouldered suits, sleek cashmere knits — new for the duo — and, of course, the requisite black leather, which they fashioned into an ultracool tunic dress.

Rachel Comey: The librarian look was alive and well for Rachel Comey, who eschewed cocktail frocks for circle skirts and trapeze coats, which emphasized volume over a streamlined silhouette.

Erin Fetherston: Erin Fetherston's ultragirly collection of dresses (most of them mini) worked best when the sweet factor moved away from Lolita's turf and got a touch of toughness, as in a sweet floral chiffon dress under a black felt peacoat.

Grad it Up

Academy of Art University: For 10 recent graduates of the San Francisco-based school of fashion, the opportunity to unveil their collections during New York Fashion Week is a chance to launch their careers. And career gals, albeit ones with a penchant for drama, will most likely swoon over the exaggerated suits by Sherise Eways, who utilized Melissa Christensen's equally dramatic silver jewelry to great effect. Marie Potesa put her joint fashion and knitwear majors in focus with experimental knitting techniques that resembled a hologram over stripes, placing them on easy dresses and cardigans. Meanwhile, Bo-Kyung Cha turned basic black wool into avant-garde dresses and coats, thanks to some great pleats and folds.

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