MRket NY achieved critical mass this season as traditional classification vendors and Italian luxury brands appeared to adopt the new event as their trade show of choice in New York. More than 250 brands exhibited, a 132 percent increase over the summer edition.
Many of the newcomers were brands that, buoyed by signs of a better economy, returned after skipping the New York market for some time. One was George Weintraub & Sons, primarily a topcoat and rainwear resource for department stores, which exhibited on the trade show circuit this time in hopes of picking up specialty store business. Same with Jams World, the latest incarnation of the Eighties brand known for its colorful printed boardshorts. Jams is primarily a women’s resort label now but it hit the New York market after a seven-year absence with plans to pitch men’s stores with its line of custom print camp shirts.
Those brands shared the growing consensus that the apparel market had turned a corner and the worst of the economic maelstrom was over. But the recession continued to cast a pall over dealings at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. D’Avenza, an Italian brand specializing in high-end, handmade garments, dropped prices 30 percent to keep in line with more price-conscious luxury shoppers. Along with the palatable price came more muted colors for its array of casually elegant sport coats in soft lambs wool and cashmere.
Value was also a watchword at sport shirt maker Thomas Dean & Co., which debuted a lower-price line at the show called Lochlane. Retailing at $79.50, the collection, rich in classic windowpanes and checks cut in washed cottons, is also playing on the American preppy trend that has been coursing through men’s wear. “It’s an American-style shirt and people have been very receptive,” said Thomas Dean principal Thomas Bonomo. “Everyone here is in business and wants to do business. There’s much less talk of immediates.”
Overall, there was less talk of economic Armageddon and more of the familiar patter of product and merchandising. Luxe outerwear expert Andrew Marc was one exhibitor that emphasized newness in its lineup. The brand is keeping pace with the contemporary customer via fresh new styles, such as a gray leather bomber, bibbed wool blazer and superlight puffer.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)