PARIS — With the diaries of editors and retailers already bulging for the upcoming Paris Fashion Week, which opens on Feb. 28, WWD highlights a few noteworthy launches, from Myriam Schaefer’s signature luxury bag line to the presentation of the first capsule clothing collection of hip Paris accessories designer Olympia Le-Tan. RELATED STORY: The Paris Scene >> CEDRIC CHARLIER: Alfred Hitchcock’s icy heroines and a photograph of Charlotte Rampling taken by Helmut Newton were among starting points for Cédric Charlier’s debut signature collection — a focused, urban, working-woman’s wardrobe.
“I like the idea of a woman who is independent and audacious,” said the designer, who teamed up with Cutler and Gross for the line’s modern mirrored shades.
Copper zippers and buttons add a touch of warmth and light to sharply constructed tailoring and dresses, some with corset constructions, in dark neutrals like navy and charcoal with touches of burgundy and green. Even the line’s knitwear is coated in a metallic copper.
Fabrics go from herringbone wools and crepes to iridescent polyester and fake leather with a convincing buttery hand.
There are also bags and shoes.
The collection is positioned in the affordable luxury bracket, going from $300 for a top or skirt to $1,200 for a dress.
Charlier, who was Cacharel’s creative director for four seasons before parting ways with the house in 2011, counts as his licensee Italy’s Aeffe SpA., which produces the Cacharel collection. Charlier’s résumé includes stints at Celine under Michael Kors and Jean Paul Knott and Lanvin under Alber Elbaz.
Charlier’s collection will be presented Tuesday at the Lycée Turgot in Paris.
A graduate of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Glenn Martens is among the season’s promising new faces, with a unique debut effort that brims with potential.
In terms of experience, the designer has worked for Jean Paul Gaultier and Yohan Serfaty. Reflecting a quintessentially Belgian aesthetic, Martens’ new signature collection was inspired by the medieval Gothic architecture of Bruges, the designer’s home town. Focusing on long and lean graphic silhouettes, the pieces are designed to be easy to wear despite their complex constructions. They come in a variety of rich and plain fabrics to suit different moods and occasions.
Easy-chic elements include T-shirts and bomber jackets in watery moiré silks and soft oversize blazers, while trickier pieces include Martens’ intriguing take on pants, cut to hang as flat-as-a-pancake at the front, like a strict skirt.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews