MILAN — The sound of music will be heard at the upcoming Pitti Uomo men’s wear fair, slated for Florence from Jan. 7 to 10.
During its biannual press conference at the Four Seasons Hotel here Monday, trade producer Pitti Immagine unveiled the agenda for the upcoming edition, which will host 1,030 exhibitors — 40 percent of which will come from foreign countries — and said music will be its main theme this year.
In addition, Pitti Immagine chief executive officer Raffaello Napoleone lamented the lack of collaboration with the London and Paris men’s fashion week organizers, which is forcing Pitti to open earlier than usual this year. The London shows run Jan. 6 to 8 and Paris is Jan. 15 to 19.
He said that about 30,000 visitors are expected at the fair, including about 20,450 buyers. Roughly 38 percent of them will come from international markets, reflecting the increased importance of exports, in particular to Asia, for Italian fashion companies.
According to data provided by Pitti Immagine, in the first seven months of the year, exports of Italy’s fashion labels to non-European countries represented 50 percent of the total exports. Specifically, exports to China increased 156 percent compared to the same period of 2012, while sales to Korea and Hong Kong increased 14.9 and 7.3 percent, respectively. Italian fashion companies also boosted their business in Russia and Japan, which grew 7 percent and 6 percent, respectively, compared to 2012. Leather goods and travel accessories were the fastest-growing category in the non-European markets, followed by footwear, textiles and apparel, along with eyewear.
Pitti Uomo has organized a tight schedule of events for January, including the debut of Andreas Melbostad as the creative director of Diesel Black Gold men’s wear line. The designer’s first collection will be unveiled with a runway show on Jan. 8 at Florence’s Stazione Leopolda. Pitti Uomo will also mark the launch of Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s No. 21 men’s wear collection to be shown on Jan. 9. The same day, Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean, who launched her men’s wear line at Pitti last June, will show her fall men’s collection at the Dogana. The two fashion houses that won the last edition of “Who is on Next?” men’s competition — hat label SuperDuper Hats and footwear brand Casamadre — will present their new accessories collections with two special events at the fair.
In addition, Scotch & Soda will unveil its new label Atelier Scotch at the Fortezza Da Basso’s Sala Degli Orologi; WP Lavori in Corso will introduce the new Baracuta Blue Label collection designed by Jeff Griffin; sportswear company Champion will showcase the new capsule by Todd Snyder, and North American outdoor label Spiewak 1904 will relaunch at Pitti and will present a capsule collection entirely made in the U.S.
Among the Italian men’s luxury brands, Brunello Cucinelli will unveil a larger, renovated booth where the brand will put a focus on its tailoring collection, while Caruso will launch its new “Fabbrica Sartoriale Italiana” exclusive sartorial project.
Running in conjunction, women’s wear trade show Pitti W will showcase the collections of 70 brands and host the runway shows of Italian brand Petite Robe Noir and Brazilian designer Barbara Casasola. They will present their collections on Jan. 8 and 9, respectively.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews