MILAN — The sound of music will be heard at the upcoming Pitti Uomo men’s wear fair, slated for Florence from Jan. 7 to 10.
During its biannual press conference at the Four Seasons Hotel here Monday, trade producer Pitti Immagine unveiled the agenda for the upcoming edition, which will host 1,030 exhibitors — 40 percent of which will come from foreign countries — and said music will be its main theme this year.
In addition, Pitti Immagine chief executive officer Raffaello Napoleone lamented the lack of collaboration with the London and Paris men’s fashion week organizers, which is forcing Pitti to open earlier than usual this year. The London shows run Jan. 6 to 8 and Paris is Jan. 15 to 19.
He said that about 30,000 visitors are expected at the fair, including about 20,450 buyers. Roughly 38 percent of them will come from international markets, reflecting the increased importance of exports, in particular to Asia, for Italian fashion companies.
According to data provided by Pitti Immagine, in the first seven months of the year, exports of Italy’s fashion labels to non-European countries represented 50 percent of the total exports. Specifically, exports to China increased 156 percent compared to the same period of 2012, while sales to Korea and Hong Kong increased 14.9 and 7.3 percent, respectively. Italian fashion companies also boosted their business in Russia and Japan, which grew 7 percent and 6 percent, respectively, compared to 2012. Leather goods and travel accessories were the fastest-growing category in the non-European markets, followed by footwear, textiles and apparel, along with eyewear.
Pitti Uomo has organized a tight schedule of events for January, including the debut of Andreas Melbostad as the creative director of Diesel Black Gold men’s wear line. The designer’s first collection will be unveiled with a runway show on Jan. 8 at Florence’s Stazione Leopolda. Pitti Uomo will also mark the launch of Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s No. 21 men’s wear collection to be shown on Jan. 9. The same day, Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean, who launched her men’s wear line at Pitti last June, will show her fall men’s collection at the Dogana. The two fashion houses that won the last edition of “Who is on Next?” men’s competition — hat label SuperDuper Hats and footwear brand Casamadre — will present their new accessories collections with two special events at the fair.
In addition, Scotch & Soda will unveil its new label Atelier Scotch at the Fortezza Da Basso’s Sala Degli Orologi; WP Lavori in Corso will introduce the new Baracuta Blue Label collection designed by Jeff Griffin; sportswear company Champion will showcase the new capsule by Todd Snyder, and North American outdoor label Spiewak 1904 will relaunch at Pitti and will present a capsule collection entirely made in the U.S.
Among the Italian men’s luxury brands, Brunello Cucinelli will unveil a larger, renovated booth where the brand will put a focus on its tailoring collection, while Caruso will launch its new “Fabbrica Sartoriale Italiana” exclusive sartorial project.
Running in conjunction, women’s wear trade show Pitti W will showcase the collections of 70 brands and host the runway shows of Italian brand Petite Robe Noir and Brazilian designer Barbara Casasola. They will present their collections on Jan. 8 and 9, respectively.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)