Fashion isn’t just about spring and fall. Pre-collections have increasingly become a force in the industry, with new designers joining the fray every season. Here, a continuously archived collection of all the looks from pre-fall 2009.
AKRIS: Albert Kriemler, who’s known for his clean lines and luxurious fabrics, remained true to that aesthetic, but he also created abstract-print blouses and coats with beautiful embroideries.
ALBERTA FERRETTI: She is a romantic at heart, and Alberta Ferretti’s lineup of dresses was a nod to silver-screen stars.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: Dickensian London is a rich theme for Alexander McQueen. “I was thinking with a 19th-century head on,” he said of designing his pre-fall collection.
ALEXANDER WANG: Influenced by the early Nineties and Tom Ford’s Gucci days, Alexander Wang turned out a sexy, sophisticated lineup.
ARMANI COLLEZIONI: Understated elegance was the order of the day for Giorgio Armani.
AZZARO: Along with her regular pre-fall collection, Vanessa Seward unveiled a capsule collection of crystal-embroidered minis designed by indie pop chanteuse April March.
BADGLEY MISCHKA: According to Mark Badgley and James Mischka, pre-fall is about “beautiful, happy clothes — nothing serious,” and with that in mind, they turned out a lineup of fanciful gowns and youthful cocktail dresses with plenty of embellishments, feathers and frayed ruffles.
BALENCIAGA: Nicolas Ghesquière knows just how to blend traditional French elements with unexpected pieces and details, including his distinctive draping.
BOTTEGA VENETA: Tomas Maier went for his signature elegant, luxurious effects.
BURBERRY PRORSUM: Revisiting the classics, Christopher Bailey turned out a stellar lineup with a polished yet disheveled sensibility.
CALVIN KLEIN: Francisco Costa showed two sides of his current fascination with chic futurism, one sober and the other, light as air.
CAROLINA HERRERA: Carolina Herrera hit a charming balance between soft and strict.
CHANEL MÉTIERS D’ART: Karl Lagerfeld showed a Russian-themed satellite collection with glimmering brocades, fur trims and luscious embroideries.
CHRISTIAN DIOR: John Galliano’s collection for Christian Dior took inspiration from Alfred Hitchcock’s icy heroines and Helmut Newton’s tough-chic glamazons.
CHRISTIAN LACROIX: Christian Lacroix tapped into a rich well of inspiration: his own couture oeuvre.
CHLOÉ: Hannah MacGibbon turned out an effortless collection of delicate crystal-embellished tops and tailored trousers.
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG: It’s a jungle out there, or, as Diane von Furstenberg said of her pre-fall collection, an urban jungle.
DKNY: Classic looks with clean lines were the order of the day.
DOLCE & GABBANA: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have gone all out for a dressed-up sensuality this season in both their signature tailored looks in gray flannels and tweeds and shapely dresses in silk satin and velvet, some detailed with paillettes and embroideries.
DONNA KARAN: Nix “pre-fall.” Donna Karan’s “transeasonal” collection, as she called it, was inspired by today’s economic climate and intended to be worn year-round.
DOO.RI: Doo-Ri Chung offered a coherent collection focused on proportions and tricks, as in dresses that give the illusion of having separate layers.
EMANUEL UNGARO: For pre-fall, Esteban Cortazar visited the Ungaro archives, reinterpreting the designer’s polkadot prints and his trademark draping and ruffles.
EMILIO PUCCI: For his first pre-fall collection for Pucci, artistic director Peter Dundas focused on cocktailwear in satin and jersey, as well as printed and beaded georgette looks with a Twenties feel.
ESCADA: Inspired by Grace Jones and Helmut Newton, Damiano Biella, turned out a collection of haberdashery pieces with feminine touches as well as plenty of sexy body-hugging dresses and skirts.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI: The designer, who usually shows in Paris, made a return to his homeland of Italy for a pre-fall runway show.
GIANFRANCO FERRE: Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi said they were interpreting a new fashion code, one that emphasizes a woman’s inner self rather than in-your-face sexiness.
GILES: The looks include curvy duchesse satin dresses with bows, shiny satin cowboy shirts paired with skinny skirts and sack dresses with laser-cut details.
GIORGIO ARMANI: Armani kept his options open with slim or A-line skirts, full or lean pants and elaborately detailed jackets
GIVENCHY: Riccardo Tisci drew inspiration from Peruvian diva Yma Sumac and Mexican painter Frida Kahlo.
GUCCI: British eccentricity inspired Frida Giannini’s lineup for Gucci, which featured smartly tailored jackets and pants as well as sleek dresses in silk georgette.
ISAAC MIZRAHI: Isaac Mizrahi turned out a terrific mix of seasonless looks that the designer referred to as the “stock for fall’s soup.”
J.MENDEL: Each season, Gilles Mendel expands his range of eveningwear choices and younger, less serious furs to throw on top. For pre-fall, he has also added lots of day looks.
JOHN GALLIANO: Multicultural references, like Indian embellishments adorning wool parkas
and trenches, ran through a wearable, feminine collection.
LANVIN: In these uncertain times, Alber Elbaz still believes in dreams and the power of glamour and beauty. For Lanvin, he took paillettes and lamé to a new level and introduced luxe evening fabrics for day.
LOEWE: Creative director Stuart Vevers looked to men’s wear, softening shapes and adding sharp accessories.
LOUIS VUITTON: Marc Jacobs keeps a retro mood for Louis Vuitton’s pre-fall collection, inspired by a book about wartime fashions.
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA: For pre-fall, Martin Margiela launched his Avant Premiere collection with laser-cut dresses and T-shirts, webby knits and circular sweaters.
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON: Glam rock was the order of the day for Matthew Williamson as he opted for heavily encrusted embroideries and plenty of gold studs.
MAX MARA: Inspired by New York City in the Fifties, the design team behind Max Mara turned out a collection of pretty printed dresses, cozy knits and cocoon coats — all timeless and feminine.
MICHAEL KORS: “If you can’t afford to buy art, you wear it,” is Michael Kors’ philosophy, reflected in his pre-fall lineup of graphic print dresses and sleek sportswear.
MISSONI: Angela Missoni focused on contemporary, kooky knitwear.
MIU MIU: Miuccia Prada opted for a school-girl approach with a nod to uniforms.
MONIQUE LHUILLIER: Her frothy frocks and dramatic gowns would make any starlet stand out.
MOSCHINO: Moschino pre-fall has evolved from the house’s previous collections and features such signature pieces as jackets and cocktail dresses with a twist.
MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC: The pre-fall lineup features lean silhouettes, but with such feminine details as bowknots, flounces, pearl embroidery and draping.
NAEEM KHAN: Naeem Khan stepped up the glamour quotient with an array of colors and patterns on his evening and cocktail dresses. And with the economy in mind, the designer also scaled back prices and offered knitwear and separates.
NARCISO RODRIQUEZ: Narciso Rodriguez infused his collages into bold prints on silk dresses and tops, creating a layered effect.
NICOLE MILLER: Inspired by astrology, Nicole Miller incorporated a star motif into prints and embroideries on tunics and dresses.
NINA RICCI: Olivier Theyskens asked himself, “If I was a girl, what would I want? What would I need?” These were the questions behind his pre-fall collection for Nina Ricci.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA: Good times and bad, one can always count on Oscar de la Renta to deliver real clothes, the kind that have at least a prayer of being purchased and worn.
PRADA: Miuccia Prada channeled the power woman via luxe fabrics and volume play in a mostly black and gray collection.
PROENZA SCHOULER: Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez showed a collection of wool jersey separates and leather pieces with a cool-casual sensibility for pre-fall.
RACHEL ROY: The designer was inspired by “Bugsy Malone” for her chic, quirky collection.
RAG & BONE: Rag & Bone stayed true to its men’s wear-inspired roots, softened up with silky numbers.
REEM ACRA: “It’s all about understated luxury,” said the designer, and, with the rich-looking beadwork on these dresses, no jewelry will be required.
RENA LANGE: It was a night with Juliette Gréco in Paris for Julian Neale and his design team, whose lineup featured sculptural tweed jackets, pleated pants and soft chiffon skirts.
RICHARD CHAI: Richard Chai mixed textures and contrasted strong, constructed pieces with soft and fluid ones.
ROBERTO CAVALLI: Cavalli played up botanical, animal and feather motifs in a neutral palette with dashes of turquoise and fuchsia.
SONIA RYKIEL: Colorado met Paris chez Sonia Rykiel for pre-fall, with sophisticated Western motifs.
ST. JOHN: “Customers are looking for investment dressing and ensembles that can be worn from day to night,” St. John ceo Glenn McMahon says of pre-fall.
STELLA MCCARTNEY: Stella McCartney opted for easy stand-alone pieces that can be tossed
together with a cool attitude.
TORY BURCH: Inspired by “the quirky style of Americans living in Venice in the Sixties,” Tory Burch infused mosaic prints into her feminine blouses and day dresses.
TULEH: Winter gardens were the inspiration behind Bryan Bradley’s collection for Tuleh.
VERSACE: Donatella Versace emphasized bold, graphic silhouettes.
VERA WANG: Drawing on the “boyish sophistication” of Gabrielle Chanel, Vera Wang played up a narrow silhouette in a mostly dark palette, showing cropped trousers and long cotton tunics, the latter with embellished panels.
VIKTOR & ROLF: Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren based their lineup on draped construction
and long, lean silhouettes with rounded volume at the shoulders.
YVES SAINT LAURENT: Stefano Pilati’s elegant, men’s wear-influenced collection featured braided effects on flannel frocks and swirling drapes and twists on evening dresses.
ZAC POSEN: Posen showed a salon-style presentation with plenty of French flair.
ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO: Prints were key for Maria Cornejo as she worked her usual geometric shapes in seasonless fabrics.