More than ever, Capsule was home base for the trade show scene’s cool kids this season. The show doubled in size to about 140 brands, despite the iffy economy, and was spread over two venues for the first time, the Puck Building and the Angel Orensanz Foundation Center.
“I think spirits are high and people are starting to see the light,” said Chris Corrado, sales director at BPMW, the showroom that organizes Capsule and also sells directional brands like Penfield, Public School and Shades of Greige. “Stores are underbought and buyers are looking for product. We’ve been fielding calls every day from stores asking for spring deliveries quickly or even looking to fill in from leftover fall product.”
Corrado pointed out that consumers targeted by Capsule’s progressive brands tend to be educated, style-conscious shoppers who may have been shielded from the worst effects of the Great Recession. “I think updating their wardrobe is an integral part of their lifestyle, and they’ve kept shopping,” he explained.
Still, those shoppers are looking for accessible pricing and value for the money, said many vendors.
“We’re aspirational but very affordable,” noted Huw Bennett, co-founder of Vanishing Elephant, a contemporary Australia-based label. The brand showcased slim suits with jackets retailing for $300 and trousers for $150, along with preppy knit polos with oxford cloth trim on collars and plackets.
A more poetic, edgy look was offered at Seoul, Korea-based Kai-Aakmann, where knee-length cardigans and quintuple-pleated trousers in shades of black and gray also sported surprisingly low price tags. “It’s fashion-forward but wearable,” said Audrey Gingras, owner of Archetype Showroom, which reps the line in the U.S.
The same could be said of the Timo Weiland collection, which included dramatic trenchcoats in lace tweed and hand-knit sweaters that flowed to the knees. The young New York-based designer has sold the line into 20 stores, including Barneys New York, Pas de Deux and Japan’s Takashimaya.
Tokyo-based Factotum showed for the first time in the U.S., via the Black Dog 8 showroom, with a lineup of coats with raccoon fur collars ($895 retail) and a range of denim, from raw rinses to tricked out and paint splattered ($220 to $500). Nearby, L.A.-based Simon Miller showed classic five-pocket denim in authentic worn-in washes ($225 to $425).
Playing up his homegrown roots, Marc McNairy — whose day job is design director for J. Press’ Japanese business — unveiled colorful silk taffeta coach’s jackets in his own collection, with “Jersey Fresh” emblazoned on the lining. Similarly, M.L. Brown & Co., a small leather goods maker, branded “Handmade in New York” on the interior of its belts, which retail for $110 to $165.
“I have a 1,600-square-foot garage in Gowanus, Brooklyn, with my own machinery,” explained the brand’s founder — and sole employee — Mathieu Brown. “I can make about 85 belts in a week if I stay focused.”
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)