More than ever, Capsule was home base for the trade show scene’s cool kids this season. The show doubled in size to about 140 brands, despite the iffy economy, and was spread over two venues for the first time, the Puck Building and the Angel Orensanz Foundation Center.
“I think spirits are high and people are starting to see the light,” said Chris Corrado, sales director at BPMW, the showroom that organizes Capsule and also sells directional brands like Penfield, Public School and Shades of Greige. “Stores are underbought and buyers are looking for product. We’ve been fielding calls every day from stores asking for spring deliveries quickly or even looking to fill in from leftover fall product.”
Corrado pointed out that consumers targeted by Capsule’s progressive brands tend to be educated, style-conscious shoppers who may have been shielded from the worst effects of the Great Recession. “I think updating their wardrobe is an integral part of their lifestyle, and they’ve kept shopping,” he explained.
Still, those shoppers are looking for accessible pricing and value for the money, said many vendors.
“We’re aspirational but very affordable,” noted Huw Bennett, co-founder of Vanishing Elephant, a contemporary Australia-based label. The brand showcased slim suits with jackets retailing for $300 and trousers for $150, along with preppy knit polos with oxford cloth trim on collars and plackets.
A more poetic, edgy look was offered at Seoul, Korea-based Kai-Aakmann, where knee-length cardigans and quintuple-pleated trousers in shades of black and gray also sported surprisingly low price tags. “It’s fashion-forward but wearable,” said Audrey Gingras, owner of Archetype Showroom, which reps the line in the U.S.
The same could be said of the Timo Weiland collection, which included dramatic trenchcoats in lace tweed and hand-knit sweaters that flowed to the knees. The young New York-based designer has sold the line into 20 stores, including Barneys New York, Pas de Deux and Japan’s Takashimaya.
Tokyo-based Factotum showed for the first time in the U.S., via the Black Dog 8 showroom, with a lineup of coats with raccoon fur collars ($895 retail) and a range of denim, from raw rinses to tricked out and paint splattered ($220 to $500). Nearby, L.A.-based Simon Miller showed classic five-pocket denim in authentic worn-in washes ($225 to $425).
Playing up his homegrown roots, Marc McNairy — whose day job is design director for J. Press’ Japanese business — unveiled colorful silk taffeta coach’s jackets in his own collection, with “Jersey Fresh” emblazoned on the lining. Similarly, M.L. Brown & Co., a small leather goods maker, branded “Handmade in New York” on the interior of its belts, which retail for $110 to $165.
“I have a 1,600-square-foot garage in Gowanus, Brooklyn, with my own machinery,” explained the brand’s founder — and sole employee — Mathieu Brown. “I can make about 85 belts in a week if I stay focused.”
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews
@prada is introducing a new project at its men’s fall 2018 show this Sunday: “Prada Invites.” The fashion house invited four celebrated creative minds – @ronanaerwanbouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, @herzogdemeuron and @rem.koolhaas – to each create a unique item with its iconic nylon material. The designs will be unveiled on the runway show, which will take place at the company’s warehouse in Viale Ortles 25. #wwdfashion #mfwm (📷: @martinocarrera)
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion