More than ever, Capsule was home base for the trade show scene’s cool kids this season. The show doubled in size to about 140 brands, despite the iffy economy, and was spread over two venues for the first time, the Puck Building and the Angel Orensanz Foundation Center.
“I think spirits are high and people are starting to see the light,” said Chris Corrado, sales director at BPMW, the showroom that organizes Capsule and also sells directional brands like Penfield, Public School and Shades of Greige. “Stores are underbought and buyers are looking for product. We’ve been fielding calls every day from stores asking for spring deliveries quickly or even looking to fill in from leftover fall product.”
Corrado pointed out that consumers targeted by Capsule’s progressive brands tend to be educated, style-conscious shoppers who may have been shielded from the worst effects of the Great Recession. “I think updating their wardrobe is an integral part of their lifestyle, and they’ve kept shopping,” he explained.
Still, those shoppers are looking for accessible pricing and value for the money, said many vendors.
“We’re aspirational but very affordable,” noted Huw Bennett, co-founder of Vanishing Elephant, a contemporary Australia-based label. The brand showcased slim suits with jackets retailing for $300 and trousers for $150, along with preppy knit polos with oxford cloth trim on collars and plackets.
A more poetic, edgy look was offered at Seoul, Korea-based Kai-Aakmann, where knee-length cardigans and quintuple-pleated trousers in shades of black and gray also sported surprisingly low price tags. “It’s fashion-forward but wearable,” said Audrey Gingras, owner of Archetype Showroom, which reps the line in the U.S.
The same could be said of the Timo Weiland collection, which included dramatic trenchcoats in lace tweed and hand-knit sweaters that flowed to the knees. The young New York-based designer has sold the line into 20 stores, including Barneys New York, Pas de Deux and Japan’s Takashimaya.
Tokyo-based Factotum showed for the first time in the U.S., via the Black Dog 8 showroom, with a lineup of coats with raccoon fur collars ($895 retail) and a range of denim, from raw rinses to tricked out and paint splattered ($220 to $500). Nearby, L.A.-based Simon Miller showed classic five-pocket denim in authentic worn-in washes ($225 to $425).
Playing up his homegrown roots, Marc McNairy — whose day job is design director for J. Press’ Japanese business — unveiled colorful silk taffeta coach’s jackets in his own collection, with “Jersey Fresh” emblazoned on the lining. Similarly, M.L. Brown & Co., a small leather goods maker, branded “Handmade in New York” on the interior of its belts, which retail for $110 to $165.
“I have a 1,600-square-foot garage in Gowanus, Brooklyn, with my own machinery,” explained the brand’s founder — and sole employee — Mathieu Brown. “I can make about 85 belts in a week if I stay focused.”
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty