Pretty, polished and a little bit punky. That was a favorite runway recipe, resulting in a batch of self-assured looks for fall.
Tuleh: Barack Obama, fashion muse? Before his show, designer Bryan Bradley said he was inspired by Obama's optimistic "Yes, we can" speech, and it's an attitude he repackaged for fashion. And indeed, his collection flaunted a cool, confident woman who's not going to let anything keep her down. She's still ladylike to the core — this is Tuleh, after all — but vamped up with shots of Seventies Bianca Jagger glamour. Thus, there were plenty of lush coats and prim cardi-and-skirt combos, but also slinky dressing robes done as eveningwear, and even a Studio 54-ready violet jacket, shirt and velvet trouser getup. The finishings came courtesy of candy-colored boots and fabulous giant snakeskin handbags. Here's hoping that rosy outlook proves infectious because who wouldn't welcome a chic, anything's-possible vibe?
Peter Som: His new post at Bill Blass clearly hasn't infringed on Peter Som's ability to design the refined separates at which he's so adept — in this case, skewed skirts in tweed and plaid, slim merino cardigans and lovely printed silk cowlneck tops. The Som polish was evident all over, here in a narrow black pencil skirt embellished with feathers, and there in a pair of slouchy trousers, made fall-appropriate in Donegal tweed. Then, a vagabond Cinderella theme slowly emerged — with full-skirted dresses in layers of gauze, tulle and taffeta — revealing a glamorous-grunge effect that had definite shades of Marc Jacobs, a look several other designers have adopted this season, too.
Thakoon: By now Thakoon Panichgul has developed his own signature look, delving into the land of geek versus chic and always coming out on the right side. This season was no exception as he worked ombré mohair into blazers, coats and dresses, paired with a colorful floral print similar to those found on old mattresses. It was no easy feat making the two look glamorous, but he did so to perfection. Panichgul was liberal with plaid, as in subtle gray-and-black schemes, as well as a multicolor one resembling a lumberjack shirt. He kept it pretty by adding a softly draped, swingy scarf tie or peekaboo yoke and shoulder on a blouse. Although he is still sharpening his craft when it comes to evening, this collection is sure to be a hit, maybe even all the way to Omaha.
Betsey Johnson: No one does kicky, fun fashion better than Betsey Johnson. This time around, she anchored her offerings with a beatnik theme, complete with a trio of bongo-playing hipsters at the runway entrance and copies of Jack Kerouac's "On the Road" for the front row. So goodbye prom-girl puffery and hello, black catsuit and jaunty beret. "It's lean, mean, rock 'n' roll and edgy," the designer said pre-show. Silhouettes came sleekly close to the body, as in a taut sequined zip-up LBD. In addition to her signature flirty dresses, Johnson also flexed a certain separates savvy, delivering on terrific cardigans, blouses, shorts and jumpers. But it's the finale that had people talking; Johnson closed with a rousing retrospective in celebration of her 30th anniversary this year.
Luca Luca: Luca Orlandi seems to be a changed man who's finally heeding his most common criticism: lack of brand identity. Whereas he has been known to skew from flashy to trashy, this season, he continued in the subdued, ladylike vein of his past two collections. Silk jersey dresses and gabardine trousers were embellished with the subtle origami-like folds he introduced for pre-fall. Elsewhere, he focused on a luxe factor via furs, like a swingy sheared mink jacket and an embroidered broadtail sheath dress. For evening, Orlandi presented elegant black gowns, as in one decorated with peacock feathers. This collection, while not groundbreaking, was pretty and polished. Perhaps Orlandi has finally found his footing.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)