Leathers, prints and lots of black and white took center stage at Fashion Coterie at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York.
The three-day show, which ran through Thursday, featured 1,500 ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories exhibitors. Booths such as Diane von Furstenberg, Bailey 44, Tibi, Minnie Rose, Mara Hoffman, Vince, AG Adriano Goldschmied, Elizabeth and James, Clover Canyon and Current/Elliott were among those busy with buyers writing orders for spring.
Animal prints (especially zebra and reptiles); leather (real and fake), geometrics and black and white, as well as shades of blue, such as navy, wedgewood and washed-out denim, were in abundance at the show. Many of the exhibitors featured prints, stripes and florals in all types of combinations. The motocross jacket was evident in many exhibitors’ collections, and skinny silhouettes in denim (from dark to bleached to white) were augmented by lots of flare legs.
“We’re definitely looking for new silhouettes and soft, fluid pants. We’re doing great with leather — leather trim, eyelets and great details,” said Frank Crisci, vice president of merchandising at Neiman Marcus. He said he was working the show with two buyers (contemporary and career).
Overall, he said, “I think there’s a Nineties vibe going on. There’s old-school Helmut Lang, harem pants and denim jumpsuits. Soft, fluid pants we haven’t seen in a long time.” He said his buyers purchase “modern and girly” at the show, lines such as Vince and Theory in the modern category, and Milly and Nanette Lepore in the girly category.
Randi Siegal, owner of Rapunzel’s Closet and Lil Rapunzel’s in Palm Beach, Fla., said the big trends were animal prints and colors such as indigo and orange. She noted that she also saw a lot of loose-knit sweaters, camouflage prints and printed trousers. “Denim, overall, seems like it’s going back to basics, as in clean washes in skinny silhouettes,” she said.
She bought the cropped sweatpants at Nation. She noted that Splendid did a nice indigo collection, and “Joie had a great spring delivery. They had a good mix of solids and nice prints.” She also liked Michael Stars’ relaxed navy and white striped drawstring pants and a fun muscle T that said “Dream” on the front in a typewriterlike font.
“The show seems really busy, which makes it a more exciting buying atmosphere because the reps get a good read of what’s selling,” said Siegal.
Rusty Lester, owner of Frances Kahn, which has three stores in Richmond, Roanoke and Virginia Beach, Va., said he was shopping Coterie looking for “new, fresh ideas.” His stores carry such designers as Giorgio Armani, Donna Karan, Michael Kors, Alice + Olivia and Rag & Bone. “I’m seeing a lot of long skirts and a lot of sheer,” said Lester. He said current business “isn’t bad, and it’s picking up a little bit.
“It’s nice to see the cooler weather,” he added. At the show, he was seeing a lot of dresses, but noticed a trend toward separates and jackets. “We do a lot of the jeans and contemporary looks here.” He believes that the jeans business has slowed down, and he said the jeans firms weren’t showing anything they haven’t done before. “I would not be surprised if wider legs start to show up,” he said.
Judy Bockl, owner of I See London, a 1,100-square-foot boutique in Milwaukee, was shopping Coterie with her daughter and daughter-in-law for spring merchandise. “We do separates and more item-driven” things, she said. Among the lines she buys at Coterie are Bailey 44, Vince, Michael Stars and Joie. “We try to get something different for Milwaukee,” she said. Even though spring comes late in Milwaukee, and sometimes not at all, “we’ll be ready just in case.” Andria De Toro, the manager/buyer, said what’s selling right now is black and white, still a lot of stripes and vegan leather (pleather, animal-friendly leather).
“We definitely do a lot of buying here,” said Bockl. “This is our main place. We also go to Chicago.” Among the jeans lines they buy are Henry & Belle, Cookie Johnson and Christopher Blue.
In the jeans category, De Toro observed, “We’re starting to look for other [silhouettes] besides skinny. We like straight leg and boot cut, and micro flare is coming on now. I think they’ll be getting away from super-skinny.”
Gary Goldstein, owner of Lonny’s, which has five stores in the New York Tristate area, said current business is “very good.”
“We’re looking to see what will be good for spring,” said Goldstein, who was buying the collection at Minnie Rose. “Everything looks great. It does well for us,” he said. He does well with prints, but it has to be the right print. “They have to be subtle enough to wear,” he said. He was seeing a lot of chambray in the market which is “soft and nice.” Tops continue to be the most important category, “and dresses are a big category.” He also wanted to buy mesh looks, which sell well. “In metallics it’s great, it’s a little dressier,” he said.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)