The recession seemed to have eased its grip at the revamped and relocated ENK NYC, where vendors cheered the steady flow of “quality” retailers and a growing consensus that the apparel business had begun to improve.
“We’ve seen retailers we haven’t seen in the market for a few seasons,” said Greg Lawrance, co-founder of Number:Lab, which showed winning athletic-inspired pieces such as a reversible wool pull-over and tailored jersey drawstring pants. “Price is still their first question, but people seem to have more faith in the future.”
Ted Baker seems to share that faith. It’s doubled down on the U.S. market, where it has been absent for the past two seasons after its master license holder, Hartmarx Corp., filed bankruptcy last summer. Now under corporate control in London, the brand is relaunching next fall with a broad assortment of sportswear and accessories. More known in the U.S. for tailored clothing, the brand emphasized its casual offering, which included playful knits and denim-friendly wovens. “Without the intermediary of a licensee, we’ve also cut prices 25 percent,” said Patrick Heitkam, executive vice president of wholesale and licensing for Ted Baker USA.
Evisu also came to ENK to showcase its new identity, crafted by new owner Scott Morrison. The Earnest Sewn co-founder unveiled an Evisu that has traded its streetwear vibe for contemporary sportswear cool. The line, rife with layered workwear looks and reimagined “mensy” classics, was shown alongside Evisu Genes, a range of younger, more advanced sportswear.
Call it “vintage” or “heritage,” but old-time looks continue to saturate the contemporary sportswear market, where blue-collar chic has influenced nearly every vendor — some more literally than others. DS Dundee, a line of updated English countryside jackets and knits, made its U.S. debut at ENK NYC with thick wool shooting jackets, melton shawl collar coats and Fair Isle knits. Recut for today’s citified squires, the line was an apt symbol of the nostalgia running through men’s wear at the moment and a reminder that the familiar can serve as fashion — especially in challenging times.
The recession continued to define business at ENK in other ways, too. Sanyo, a large outerwear maker in Japan, said the majority of its business in the U.S. stems from in-stock programs as retailers have shunned seasonal goods. A Sanyo representative said 80 percent of its sales were from in-stock goods, compared with 50 percent two years ago.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye