EBay Inc. moves more apparel online than any other company. Yet that’s simply not enough for the giant Web site.
In March, eBay will launch “the fashion vault” for “flash” sales of designer goods in a format not dissimilar from that of Web sites Gilt Groupe and Ideeli. Hugo Boss, DKNY, Max Mara and Cole Haan Outerwear were tested last year and there’s a good chance they’ll be seen on the fashion vault again. Initially, there will be weekly flashes, but the frequency will increase in subsequent months.
EBay also is creating an online outlet mall for the U.S. with some well-known retail and apparel brands. Lord & Taylor’s outlet division is already on board and Brooks Brothers will be added next month. More brands and stores are seen joining, as they have in Europe, where eBay operates extensive outlet sites, such as in the U.K. with 16 stores including Debenhams, House of Fraser and Schuh, and in Germany, with 24 branded apparel shops including Eastpak, Fila, Speedo and Triumph.
There’s more to the program. In early April, eBay will unveil enhanced visual search technology for clothes, shoes and accessories, listed as the CSA category, to enable visitors to find products by style as well by brand or price. There will be better visuals and trend commentary from stylists, with additional technology features continuing to roll out through the year.
And if eBay has its way, the recently launched Norma Kamali and Narciso Rodriguez capsule collections are just the beginning of the site forming exclusive tie-ups with designers and brands. EBay officials have been scouring showrooms and had a bigger presence at New York Fashion Week to sow seeds for additional exclusives. No further designer deals have been signed yet, but eBay says at least one new designer exclusive will launch in September. EBay supports the designers with homepage and other on-site placements, creating branded storefronts that reflect their image and design sensibility, public relations, customized e-mails to millions of eBay fashion buyers and improved visibility in online key word search results.
“There’s great opportunity for eBay in the category,” eBay president and chief executive officer John Donahoe told WWD exclusively of the Web site’s moves in fashion. “We can offer incredible value and selection for fashion shoppers, and create new business models and channels of distribution for apparel brands and retailers.”
“We are playing to our strengths,” added Lorrie Norrington, president of eBay Marketplaces. “EBay is the number-one clothing site on the Internet,” with $7.1 billion worth of apparel products sold last year. Only cars, trucks, motorcycles and auto part sales — the motor category — surpass those of apparel on eBay, she added.
“Whether it’s Tory Burch or Levi’s jeans, we’ve got it,” Norrington said. “It’s hard to imagine having 10 million items on the shelves — just clothing items — but we have that. We are focused on taking that store with great values and great inventory and really unlocking that in new ways. We want to have a complement of experiences.”
The Rodriguez deal, launched last week, benefits both parties, giving eBay some cachet and the designer an e-commerce site and new audience for a small and different array of products at prices significantly lower than his regular collection. Kathy Kalesti, president of Narciso Rodriguez, said the eBay line had more than 300,000 visits in its first two days last week and “continues to grow every day.”
“A lot is still up in the air for the fall. We want Narciso to come back” with a second eBay exclusive collection, though it will take three to four months of selling to determine the success of the line, Norrington said.
“Maybe we will have a few different designers, or maybe identify one that will make a powerful statement,” she added. “We don’t want to force it. We want it to be organic. We are always looking for a value message. We are being approached by a few different designers of different calibers. The difference is now we have a better way of featuring them.”
For all its activity, eBay doesn’t spend a penny on apparel, or any other goods. It’s a marketplace with 90 million active buyers and sellers. The e-commerce company makes money by charging sellers fees for listing their merchandise on the site and commissions when the merchandise is sold. EBay last year reported $8.7 billion in revenues and $2.4 billion in net income on a generally accepted accounting principles basis.
With its vast product listings and mundane visuals generally, eBay can be a laborious experience with a flea market aura. The plan is to refine the Web site with fashion pages that are easier to search, appear more stylish and editorially informed and maintain the focus on offering values and bargains. The changes hopefully will enable eBay to attract more brands, retailers and designers and encourage shoppers to browse and, to a greater extent, wardrobe via the site. At present, most visitors tend to search eBay for something specific and leave it at that. “More like this” technology will enable buyers to see items similar to the one they initially searched. There also will be a fashion tab on the homepage, a stylist hub page and an additional address, Fashion.eBay.com.
EBay says it sells a dress and a pair of women’s jeans every 18 seconds and a pair of shoes every three seconds, and that its core fashion customers are women in their 20s and 30s seeking value and style. On the mobile front, since launching an iPhone application in 2008, apparel has emerged as eBay’s number-one mobile category in terms of items sold. By the end of last year, more than $600 million of all types of merchandise was purchased via eBay mobile.
Through the enhancements and new shopping formats, there will be more selling at fixed prices rather than through auction. “We see consumers consistently buying more fixed price,” Norrington said. “Auctions is a great format for items of unknown value [like vintage]. But fixed price has always been a faster format for growing than auction.”
On eBay, it’s 56 percent fixed price and 44 percent auction, and the company expects the ratio to eventually reach about 80 percent fixed, 20 percent auction, though there are some big apparel sellers that do best via auction, including vintage. A lower fee structure for listings will be implemented March 30, encouraging selling at fixed prices.
With additional designers, brands and retailers coming onto eBay to sell direct to consumers, there’s the potential to cannibalize business away from smaller sellers. But Donahoe said, “EBay sellers already compete with brands and retailers. Bringing onto eBay more great merchandise that our customers are looking for helps all sellers. More selection creates a more robust marketplace and builds demand.”
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast